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Celebrating the Year’s End, Seoul-Style

Published Date : Nov 20, 2014 / Edited Date : Feb 13, 2019

Ending 2014 With a Celebration of Seoul's Alternative Drinking Culture

If you've ever walked through downtown Seoul at night, you'll know that its citizens don't make going to bed early a priority. Seoul is one of the most sociable nations you're ever likely to come across, and end of the year is when the partying reaches fever pitch. Social engagements that have been put off for eleven months because of busy schedules cram thick and fast into the final week or two of December. Much eating and drinking takes place.

When it comes to your end-of-year celebration, there's no need to settle for ubiquitous “chemical” soju and weak lager: Seoul has an alcohol culture every bit as rich as that of its famed culinary world. From makgeolli, the white rice beer that effortlessly seduces most first-time foreign drinkers, to the fruit and berry wines of the south and a variety of eye-watering authentic distilled soju and plenty more, there's something to new discover for everyone and anyone. If you've lost count of the number of fake soju-fuelled grilled pork barbecues recently, maybe it's time to spice up your end-of-year celebrations with a journey deeper into the diverse and wonderful world of Korean drinking. Not to mention some unconventional venues...

Liquid tradition

The twentieth century was a hard time for Korea's traditional beverages. The rich tapestry of local breweries and recipes was shredded by a combination of modern regulations, bans and cutthroat competition. Now, though, a revival is underway. Old recipes are seeing the light of day again, obscure breweries are discovering the power of marketing, and new startups are reinventing traditional tastes to attract twenty-first-century palates. Now is a better time than ever to get acquainted with Korea's rich heritage of makgeolli, fruit wines, fiery undiluted sojus and yakju - “medicinal wines” made with various herbs, roots, mushrooms and more.

Neurin Maeul Brewery and Pub
If you find yourself by Cheonggyecheon Stream in downtown Seoul this December, try taking refuge from the cold in Neurin Maeul Brewery and Pub on the second floor of Center One, a gleaming new double-skyscraper complex. Neurin Maeul is proof that large-scale commercial success does not have to mean mediocre beverages. The first thing you'll see once your eyeballs defrost is a large row of stainless fermentation tanks on the left, a reassuring sign that this place knows and cares what it serves its customers.

The star of the menu is undoubtedly the makgeolli, Korea's popular rice beer. It's available in four varieties – spring, summer, autumn and winter – differentiated purely in terms of maturity. Makgeolli is a simple, honest drink that brews quickly and ages quickly, and Neurin Maeul (the name of which, in fact, means “slow village”) makes beautiful use of this speedy process. “Spring” is a fresh, sweet and light makgeolli served just one to three days into the brewing process. The selection then grows gradually fizzier and sourer as it moves through “summer”(four to six days) and “autumn” (seven to nine days), eventually reaching “winter” (10 days “+”), a pungent, full-bodied celebration of the fermentation process that Neurin Maeul itself describes as “makgeolli for boozers.” Made only with rice, nuruk (a traditional, soy bean-based yeast) and water, Neurin Maeul's makgeolli is exceptionally honest. Health conscious drinkers (if such a thing exists) will be especially keen to know that's it contains no aspartame, a common impostor in many other makgeolli brands.

The rest of the menu includes arak, premium soju infused with various fruit aromas, more fruit wines, draft wines and a selection of classic anju (alcohol accompanying food) classics such as tofu and kimchi, roast pork belly with red pepper paste, and several homemade rice cakes with boiled pork. Most anju lie within or near the 20,000-30,000 won price range, while the makgeolli is served in 1,000ml glass jugs for 8,000 won.

[More info]
Opening hours: 11am-11pm
T. 02-6030-0999

Getting there: Euljiro 1-ga Station, Line 2, Exit 4. Head straight for 50m, then turn left by Hana Bank and follow the road toward Cheonggyecheon Stream. You'll soon see Center One towering above you on the right: Neurin Maeul is on the second floor of the Eastern tower.

Tip #1: Neurin Maeul Brewery and Pub has a large, roomy interior that makes perfect use of the premium slice of skyscraper space it occupies. Rooms are also available, comfortably seating parties of 12 people or so. Neurin Maeul isn't one of the cheapest places to drink in the capital, but it's far from a rip-off and provides some excellent makgeolli.

Tip #2: You can find Neurin Maeul Brewery and Pub near Yangjae Station and Gangnam Station as well.

Tip #3: Center One is built on a foundation of excellent bars and restaurants – Korean, Japanese, Thai, Mexican, burger joints, you name it – why not get dinner here before heading up to Neurin Maeul? http://center1.co.kr/eng

Journeys of discovery

Knowing that Seoul is full of unique traditional beverages is one thing; knowing where to find them is another thing. Though the country is an Internet powerhouse, word of mouth is still the best way of discovering the very best places. And VisitSeoul.net, of course. The best recommendations will lead you to places with large, diverse drinks menus introducing the work of the country's best brewers and winemakers, and food cooked by someone who really cares about what their customers eat.
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Ipari
On the second floor of an unassuming building in western Seoul's Yeonhui-dong neighborhood is Ipari, a place that fits this description exactly. If you can find it, you'll be rewarded: this is an excellent place to experience some of Korea's most authentic beverages.

Indecisive people who have managed to decide to go here in the first place will be rewarded by the “sampler” options on the menu: two or three glasses of premium makgeolli, cheongju (clear rice wine), fruit wine, 20% soju or 40% soju, or even “Korea's three great famous alcohols” (Igangju, Gamhongno and Jungnyeokgo). Six separate varieties of makgeolli, three of stronger “premium makgeolli,” and a wide range of soju and fruit-based drinks are available, with prices ranging from 6,000 won for a bottle of the least expensive makgeolli to 1.8 million won for a special bottle of award-winning Songsolju, a traditional tipple made from rice-based liquor infused with pine roots and needles (most traditional sojus range from 10,000 to 50,000 won). Ipari boosts an outstanding beverage menu, but it is much more than just a place to drink. A talented chef lurks in the kitchen, turning out dishes such as “samsaek yukhoe,” Korean-style raw beef strips served with three different seasonings: salt alone, Ipari's own homemade soy sauce, and a mixture of chili paste and perilla seeds. Sashimi is another popular choice, and the very friendly waiter is on-hand to recommend the best choices each day. “The menu sometimes changes several times each week,” he explains. “It depends what fresh ingredients we have at the time.” Seoul could never have too many places like this.

[More info]
Opening hours:5pm to 3am
T. 010-5188-7766
Facebook: www.facebook.com/ipari282

Getting there: Hongik University Station, Lines 2 and AREX, Exit 3. Turn 180 degrees at the top of the exit steps, then left at the main road. Keep left at the large intersection with the Rinnai Building and follow the same main road for about 1km, underneath the railway bridge and raised road intersection. After the intersection, turn left by Hana Bank, then left at the end of the road. Ipari is on the second floor of the building after the naengmyeon restaurant, on the left.

Tip #1: Another “umbrella” venue for experiencing a large selection of traditional beverages is Nuruk Namu, hidden down a tiny alleyway near Insa-dong (Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 6; first left down very narrow alleyway by car park; Tel: 02-722-3398), which offers several dozen makgeollis and premium makgeollis.

Tip #2A new chapter in Seoul's authentic beverage history is beginning with several local pubs offering their own real ale. Magpie Brewing Co. is a highly popular venue in Itaewon (Noksapyeong Station, Line 6, Exit 2; see map on Facebook page www.facebook.com/magpiebrewing; 02-749-2703) where Seoulites and expats alike enjoy the local brew..

Daytime drinking

Often called the “Land of the Morning Calm,” Korea is better known to those that live there as the Land of the Morning Hangover. From lunchtime, however, the first bottles of soju begin emerging from fridges throughout Seoul. Daytime drinking is not too common, but there are some days when the prospect of a dry lunch just doesn't appeal. And if you have the day off or are at a loose end on a cold Saturday afternoon, the wind whipping the last leaves of autumn into a frenzy, it's only reasonable to find a warm place to enjoy a cup of makgeolli. >

Aoi Sora

Perched atop a high hill in Itaewon, Aoi Sora is a self-described specialist in “natsul” - daytime imbibition. Indeed, from Monday to Wednesday, it's only open from 2pm to 7pm, making diurnal drinking your only option. Like Neurin Maeul and Ipari, Aoi Sora (which means “blue sky” in Japanese, amongst other things), has fridges filled with a range of unusual and delicious makgeolli, soju and more. This is a place that does things the way it wants to, yet in a competent and unselfconscious way. You'll find green bottles of “Aoi Sora”-labelled soju among the cool crowd in the fridge, inexplicably bearing the mermaid logo of Starbucks fame. A widescreen TV on the wall cycles through a succession of menu specials, complemented by a paper menu stuck to a large and improbably heavy wooden slab. Jazz of the non-cheesy (and, shockingly for early-November, non-Christmassy) variety emanates from the stereo. The staff are highly friendly and really know their way around a kitchen---the oysters with yuja (citron) dressing are a highlight---seafood dominates the menu, albeit not exclusively. Drinks range in price from 5,000 won for the cheapest bottle of makgeolli, soju or OB Golden Lager, and rise through the 10,000-70,000 range for various unusual and delicious premium makgeolli and soju, traditional wines.

[More info]
Opening hours:Mon-Wed 2pm-7pm; Thu-Sat 2pm-2am
T. 070-4217-1977
Facebook: www.facebook.com/SoraAoiSalon

Getting there: Itaewon Station, Line 6, Exit 3. Head straight for 100m, then turn right by the fire station and climb the hill. Turn left by Bogwang Elementary School and follow the road for about 200m, passing Seoul Central Mosque on your left about half-way. Aoi Sora is on the left.

Tip #1 This is the perfect place to start an early celebration, though arriving at 3pm rather than 2pm on-the-dot is recommended due to occasional late openings. Guests turning up on Thursday, Friday or Saturday will find the hours of business extended to a much more accommodating 2am.

Tip #2 Daytime drinking is a much easier proposition in summer, when many of the capital's myriad convenience stores provide plastic tables and chairs outside for an instant terrace experience. Just pop open a can of cold beer, rip apart a dried squid and while the afternoon away.

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Celebrating the Year’s End, Seoul-Style

Ending 2014 With a Celebration of Seoul's Alternative Drinking Culture

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Ending 2014 With a Celebration of Seoul's Alternative Drinking Culture