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Hiking the Walled City: Seeing Seoul from its Fortress Walls

Published Date : Apr. 09, 2014 / Edited Date : Feb. 13, 2019
Hiking the Walled City: Seeing Seoul from its fortress walls
 
Introduction

Seoul is an undoubtedly modern city, but traces of its ancient past are everywhere. Some of the best examples are its traditional gates and the remains of an 18-kilometer fortress wall. Built in the 14th century by 200,000 laborers, the wall snakes its way along the ridge lines of four small mountains.

Over the years, sections of the wall were strengthened, heightened or torn down. Recently, a long stretch of wall on Bugaksan Mountain were restored and re-opened to the public. Today, hiking Seoul’s fortress walls is one of the best ways to experience the city’s ancient history, its natural beauty and enjoy some amazing views!

How about we take a hike along the city’s fortress walls?
Hiking Seoul fortress walls course map

Course Overview


Our full-day course starts at Anguk Station. From there we’ll take a bus to Bugaksan Mountain's trailhead. Along the way we’ll visit Seoul Hanyang Doseong's (Fortress Wall) great northern gate (Sukjeongmun) and its oldest extant gate (Changuimun). We’ll also make a pit stop at Samcheonggak, a traditional retreat once reserved for high-ranking officials. After climbing our way to Bugaksan’s summit, I bet you’ll be hungry, so we’ll head down the mountain to the charming hamlet of Buam-dong for some of Seoul’s best comfort food. After lunch, let’s take a leisurely walk to a new museum and along Gyeongbokgung’s Palace western wall.

Whew! It’s an ambitious course, so...
Let’s Get Started!
 
Course from Anguk station to Sungkyungwan university rear gate



 
Transit tips at Anguk station

Transit Tips:

- At Seoul Metro Line 3’s Anguk Station, take exit #2. About five meters outside the exit is a large, bright green bus sign.

- Take green bus #02 to Sungkyunkwan University’s rear gate. The fare is 1,000 won and the ride is about 8~10 minutes. Depart the bus at Sungkyunkwan University’s rear gate.

- From there, follow the boardwalk up the hill. After about 100 meters, the road winds to the left. A viewing platform is on the right. Keep walking.

- At the fork in the road, veer right past the tunnel and the large white letters that say “Waryong Park” in Korean.


 
Course from Sungkyungwan university rear gate to Sukjeongmun information center

The sign in Bugaksan mountainStarting The Hike

As the bus winds up Bugaksan (Mt.), the urban jungle quickly gives way to nature. Shortly after departing the bus, take a moment to enjoy great views of the city on the viewing platform. To the right is Namsan Mountain and Namsan Seoul Tower. Directly ahead is Dongdaemun Market’s Doosan Tower. Both are great places to visit!

For now, let’s walk about 100 meters up the road to catch our first glimpse of Seoul Fortress at Waryong Park. Just past the exercise equipment and badminton courts is a break in the wall. Pass through it, turn left at the trail map and walk past the blue building. A few hundred meters later, veer left at the first fork in the path. As you walk along the ivy-covered fortress walls, enjoy the tunnel of color created by the lush, flowering bushes and trees!

At the next fork in the path, veer left up the stairs. Take another left at the four-way intersection toward Sukjeongmun. This part of the hike is especially beautiful. Through the trees to your right you can see the ritzy Seongbuk-dong neighborhood and a large, traditional-looking building. That’s Samcheonggak. We’ll go there in a moment, but first, let’s continue down the stairs toward the Sukjeongmun Information Center for a quick pit stop.

 
Different stones for different eras
Did you notice the various sizes and shapes of the wall’s stones? The original fortress walls were built in the 14th century and constructed of medium-sized round stones held together by earth. Some 118,000 men were organized during the agricultural off-season to start construction of the wall over 49 days. Six months later, another 79,000 workers toiled another 49 days to complete the fortress.
 
Twenty-seven years later, King Sejong the Great improved the wall by replacing it with rectangular stones that fit closely together. This time, the effort required over 320,000 laborers and engineers drawn from across the nation. The feat was made all the more remarkable since Seoul’s population at the time was just 100,000. Another major restoration in 1704 by King Sukjong used large, uniform stone slabs. In the modern era, parts of the wall and several of its gates have been demolished. Today, about 10.5 kilometers of the original 18.2 remain, mostly in mountainous areas.
The Bugaksan mountain trail

More Transit Tips:

- Upon reaching the Sukjeongmun Information Center, turn right toward the Samcheong Tunnel.
- Walk past the green trail map and walk over the footbridge.
- Follow the trail to the main road. Turn left and walk about 35 meters until you reach Samcheonggak’s front gate.

 
Course from Sukjeongmun information center to Samcheonggak
   
The Samcheonggak 1
Despite its peaceful, natural setting, Samcheonggak
is a place with an exciting past and present. President
Park Chung-hee built the facility in 1972 to meet with
North Korean officials, but an inter-Korean meeting
didn’t actually take place there until 2007, when
Samcheonggak was the site for a banquet for the
historic Joint Statement Declaration between the two
Koreas.

Today, Samcheonggak offers an impressive array
of activities for the Korean culture enthusiast, be it
cultural performances, workshops or seminars.
Specifically, the facility offers visitors the chance to
experience traditional tea ceremonies, janggu drum
and bamboo flute playing, and how to sing pansori,
Korea’s UNESCO-recognized traditional folk opera.
A Special Getaway

It’s just a 15-minute walk from the Sukjeongmun Information Center to Samcheonggak, and it’s a trip well worth the effort. The stately Samcheonggak was built in 1972 to entertain high-ranking officials. Strangely enough, few people these days know about this gorgeous destination!

Samcheonggak’s name refers to clean mountains, water and good-natured people. Its immaculate grounds were operated as a private restaurant for two decades until the City of Seoul purchased it in 2000. Today, the Korean restaurant, teahouse, performance hall and guest quarters are a popular urban getaway to enjoy traditional architecture, cuisine and music.


As you take a look around, you’ll probably notice there are six buildings. Ilhwadang Hall is the grandest (and the only structure built with concrete), and it’s where the restaurant and tea house are located. Three smaller halls, the Dongbaekheon Chamber, and the Yuhajeong Pavilion are also set amongst landscaped grounds and an extensive network of gorgeous traditional stone, wood and tile walls.

Isn’t it relaxing?

Note to self:
Come back soon for a romantic dinner date!
 
The Samcheonggak 2
Address: Seoul, Seongbuk-gu, Seongbuk 2(i)-dong, 330-115; Hours of Operation: Hansikdang (Restaurant) 12:00 ~ 15:00 / 18:00 ~ 22:00; Dawon (Tea House) 10:00 ~ 23:00 (Performances and cultural experience activities held throughout the week.); Reservation Inquiries: 02-765-3700; More Information: http://www.samcheonggak.or.kr (in Korean)
Course from Samcheonggak to Changuimun information center
After a leisurely stroll around Samcheonggak, let’s head back to the Information Center. Once there, we must register with our passports or Alien Registration Cards at the Information Center. After just a couple of minutes, we’ll receive a neck pass and off we go!
 

Bugaksan special security zone
Although Bugaksan’s trails were opened to the
public in April 2006, they remain militarily sensitive
areas, thanks to their proximity to the president’s
official residence. For example, in 1968, thirty-one
North Korean assassins were discovered just 600
meters from the president’s house. For this reason,
walls of razor wire fences line the fortress, and
young soldiers (in park uniforms) patrol the area.
Most of this stretch of the fortress can’t be photo-
graphed, but when in doubt, simply ask one of the
guards.


The trail is open from 09:00~17:00 from April until
October and 10:00~17:00 from Nov. to March.
However, entrance is allowed only until 15:00 (two
hours before closing). Closed on Mondays (or
Tuesdays if the Monday falls on a National
Holiday). ID required.
      Back on the trail

It’s about a five-minute hike to Seoul Fortress’ great north gate, Sukjeongmun. You may have already seen one of Seoul’s other major gates – the great east gate best known as Dongdaemun. If so, you’ll notice that the north gate is a lot smaller. In fact, Sukjeongmun’s colorful wood ramparts weren’t even built until 1976. That’s because it was built to satisfy feng shui principles more than accommodate traffic.


While you’re on the gate, enjoy the view because soon you’ll be breathing heavily. Your reward for the climb? Spectacular views of the city! And before you know it, we’ll reach Baegakmaru, the name of Bugaksan’s 342-meter peak. At this point, Namsan Seoul Tower is to the left and Gwanghwamun Square and Gyeongbokgung Palace are right below us!

The trip back down is pretty steep, but along the way you can enjoy the view of Bukhansan’s (Mt.) dorsal fin-shaped peak. The mountain marks Seoul’s northern boundary. Before you know it, we’ll pass the Dolgorae Rest Area and just a few hundred meters later, we’ll enter the peaceful hamlet of Buam-dong. Before exiting the Changuimun Information Center, don’t forget to drop your neck pass into the basket!


Back on the trail, it’s about a five-minute hike to Seoul Fortress’ great north gate, Sukjeongmun. You may have already seen one of Seoul’s other major gates – the great east gate best known as Dongdaemun. If so, you’ll notice that the north gate is a lot smaller.
 

In fact, Sukjeongmun’s colorful wood ramparts weren’t even built until 1976. That’s because it was built to satisfy feng shui principles more than accommodate traffic.
 
Course from Changuimun information center to Buamdong
Seoul Fortress's Oldest Gate

Before we head for lunch in Buam-dong, let’s take a few minutes to view Changuimun, the secondary fortress gate better known as Jahamun. The gate’s wooden top section dates to 1741, which makes it the oldest of Seoul Fortress’s remaining gates. Under the archway are colorful painted phoenixes – or maybe they’re roosters?

Up ahead is another tunnel, which marks the entrance into Buam-dong. This quiet neighborhood feels far from downtown Seoul. Indeed, one shop owner described it as, “too quiet for a serious business.” Maybe so, but it’s a great place for lunch! Case in point is Cheers!, which specializes in some of the crispiest and juiciest fried chicken Seoul has to offer. It’s served alongside amazing fried potato wedges and a spicy-sweet dipping sauce and tastes great with a pint of draft beer. That sounds like the perfect way to celebrate our successful hike!

 
Seoul Fortress Oldest Gate
 
Buamdong map
 
When you walk underneath Changuimun’s grand arch, you’ll see two winged beasts. While they’re not dragons, some think the official explanation is dubious. According to the signboards, the colorful animals are phoenixes, the mythical firebird from ancient cultures ranging from Egypt to China. But a folk tale suggests a more humble heritage. The birds are possibly chickens –roosters, to be exact. Given the Fortress’ long, centipede-like shape, its natural enemy would be the rooster. Achieving balance – the yin and yang – was of critical importance in ancient Korea, so Changuimun’s chickens were said to repress the centipede’s energy, thus creating harmony. So, what do you think they look like? Changuimun chickens  

If fried chicken doesn’t suit you, next-door is Rabia, which serves yummy Italian fare. Or, turn right at the intersection to find a couple of restaurants, cafés, a bakery specializing in cupcakes and a flower shop on the main drag. If a jolt of caffeine is what you need, across the street from Cheers! is Club Espresso, a large café that’s been dedicated to the fine art of coffee since 1990. Got even more time to burn? Check out the popular Whanki Museum.
 
Course from Buamdong to Cheongwadae sarangchae

Before the post-lunch sleepiness sets in, let’s get back on the road. This time it’s a walk down a tree-lined street boasting great views of red tile roofs and the city. We’ll pass a bronze statue of Police Commissioner Choi Gyu-sik who was killed by North Korean spies in 1968.

 
The view from Buamdong

After about a kilometer, we’ll arrive at Cheongwadae Sarangchae, an exhibition and museum space showcases the history of the Korean presidency, government initiatives and aspects of Korean culture that are popular around the globe. The word “sarangchae” refers to a detached room in traditional Korean manors where men would entertain fellow male guests.

Once we’ve had our fill of the exhibits, I suggest checking out the souvenir store that’s located next to the lobby. There’s a surprising mix of interesting and high-quality items about Seoul and Korea. It’s a great place to stock up on gifts for family and friends back home!


 
King Gojong Although Gyeongbokgung Palace was originally built in the late 14th century, it was burned to the ground during Japan’s Hideyoshi invasions after some 200 years. When King Gojong rebuilt the palace in 1868, he created a virtual city with over 300 buildings covering 64 hectares. In fact, ancient Seoul’s five palaces formed a royal compound that was second only to Beijing’s Forbidden City. Sadly, when the Japanese government annexed Korea in 1910, it razed 90% of the royal buildings and gardens.

Today, both the president’s official residence, Cheongwadae, and the Cheongwadae Sarangchae are located on former palace grounds.
 
 
Cheongwadae Sarangchae
Address: Seoul, Jongno-gu, Hyoja-dong 150; Phone Inquiries: 02-723-0300; Hours of Operation: 09:00 ~ 18:00; Closed Mondays. More information: http://cwdsarangchae.kr [Korean only]
 
 
Course from Cheongwadae sarangchae to Gyeongbokgung station
Wrapping It Up!

Once we’ve finished our tour of the Cheongwadae Sarangchae, our tour is almost complete! But before we say goodbye, let’s take a final stroll along another famous city wall. It’s not part of the fortress wall, but it’s the stately western wall of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Gyeongbokgung was the primary royal residence of Seoul during the late Joseon Dynasty. At the end of the wall is a busy intersection. Turn right and you’ll quickly reach exit 4 of Seoul Metro Line 3’s Gyeongbokgung Station.

…which is where our tour of Seoul’s fortress and palace walls comes to an end!

I hope you enjoyed seeing the city with me.
Thanks for coming along and let’s do it again soon!


 
Hiking Seoul fortress walls itinerary schedule and cost
Tags

#course #itinerary #history #Seoul wall #fortress walls

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    (최소 5일~한달 전)3회 이상 전화통화가 이뤄지지 않을 시 예약이 취소될 수 있습니다.
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  • 해설 진행 시 발생하는 안전사고에 대해서 도보관광 사무국과 서울문화관광해설사는 책임을 지지 않습니다.
  • 보호자가 동반하지 않는 만 14세 미만의 하동 관광객의 경우 현장에서 취소됩니다.
  • 미세먼지 비상저감조치 발령 및 기타 기상악화(폭염, 태풍, 폭우 등)로 인해 도보관광 운영이 어려운 경우 모든 예약은 일괄 취소됩니다. (관광일 전날 기준)

예약 전 안내사항

  • 예약은 관광일 기준 최소 1주일 전까지 가능합니다.
  • 덕수궁의 경우 복지카드를 지참한 관광객에 한하여 무료입장이 가능합니다.
    ※ 중증(1~3급) 동반인 포함 2명 무료※ 경증(4~6급) 장애인 본인 1인만 무료
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  • 예약확인을 위해 도보관광 사무국(02-6025-0777)에서 확인 연락이 진행됩니다.(최소 5일~한달 전)3회 이상 전화통화가 이뤄지지 않을 시 예약이 취소될 수 있습니다.
  • 해설 진행 시 발생하는 안전사고에 대해서 도보관광 사무국과 서울문화관광해설사는 책임을 지지 않습니다.
  • 미세먼지 비상저감조치 발령 및 기타 기상악화(폭염, 태풍, 폭우 등)로 인해 도보관광 운영이 어려운 경우 모든 예약은 일괄 취소됩니다. (관광일 전날 기준)

예약 전 안내사항

  • 예약은 관광일 기준 최소 1주일 전까지 가능합니다.
  • 덕수궁의 경우 복지카드를 지참한 관광객에 한하여 무료입장이 가능합니다.
    ※ 중증(1~3급) 동반인 포함 2명 무료
    ※ 경증(4~6급) 장애인 본인 1인만 무료
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  • 희망하시는 날짜 및 코스에 활동가능한 해설사가 없는 경우 예약은 취소될 수 있습니다.
  • 예약확인을 위해 도보관광 사무국(02-6025-0777)에서 확인 연락이 진행됩니다.
    (최소 5일~한달 전)3회 이상 전화통화가 이뤄지지 않을 시 예약이 취소될 수 있습니다.
  • 해설 진행 시 발생하는 안전사고에 대해서 도보관광 사무국과 서울문화관광해설사는 책임을 지지 않습니다.
  • 미세먼지 비상저감조치 발령 및 기타 기상악화(폭염, 태풍, 폭우 등)로 인해 도보관광 운영이 어려운 경우 모든 예약은 일괄 취소됩니다. (관광일 전날 기준)

예약 전 안내사항

  • 예약은 관광일 기준 최소 1주일 전까지 가능합니다.
  • 본 코스는 보행약자(거동이 불편한 고령자, 장애인, 유모차 이용자 등)를 위한 코스입니다.
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    ※ 전동보장구(전동휠체어, 전동스쿠터 등) 사용자의 경우 보호자 1인당 보행약자 최대 4인까지 동반 가능
    희망하시는 날짜 및 코스에 활동가능한 해설사가 없는 경우 예약은 취소될 수 있습니다.
  • 예약확인을 위해 도보관광 사무국(02-6025-0777)에서 확인 연락이 진행됩니다.(최소 5일~한달 전)3회 이상 전화통화가 이뤄지지 않을 시 예약이 취소될 수 있습니다.
  • 해설 진행 시 발생하는 안전사고에 대해서 도보관광 사무국과 서울문화관광해설사는 책임을 지지 않습니다.
  • 미세먼지 비상저감조치 발령 및 기타 기상악화(폭염, 태풍, 폭우 등)로 인해 도보관광 운영이 어려운 경우 모든 예약은 일괄 취소됩니다. (관광일 전날 기준)

Read before Reservation

  • Reservation shall be made at least 3 days before the tour day.
  • Reservation for the next month is available after 15th of the previous month.
  • Reservation may be closed early during weekend, holiday, and peak season in spring and fall.
  • Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office and Seoul culture and tourism guide are not liable for the safety accidents during the Seoul Guided Walking Tour.
  • Reservation for unaccompanied tourist under 14 will be canceled on site.
  • All reservations are canceled when Seoul Guided Walking Tour is unavailable due to Particulate Matter Reduction Measure or other weather conditions (heat wave, typhoon, heavy rain). (As of the date before the tour day)

Read before Reservation

  • Reservation shall be made at least 1 week before the tour day.
  • The course is for tourists with mobility problems (Senior, people with disability, stroller user).
  • You may not use the course without an assistant (or companion)
    ※ At least one assistant shall accompany a tourist with mobility problem
    ※ In case of electric assisting device users (electric wheelchair, electric scooter users), one assistant may accompany up to 4 tourists with mobility problem
  • Reservation may be canceled when a guide is unavailable on the desired date and course.
  • Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office (02-6025-0777) will contact you to confirm reservation.
    (At least 5 days~1 month before tour day) Reservation may be canceled when Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office cannot reach you for more than 3 times.
  • Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office and Seoul culture and tourism guide are not liable for the safety accidents during the Seoul Guided Walking Tour.
  • All reservations are canceled when Seoul Guided Walking Tour is unavailable due to Particulate Matter Reduction Measure or other weather conditions (heat wave, typhoon, heavy rain). (As of the date before the tour day)

予約前の案内事項

  • 予約は観光日を基準として少なくとも3日前まで可能です。
  • 翌月の予約は、前月の15日から可能です。
  • 週末及び祝日、春秋シーズンには予約が早めに締め切られる場合があります。
  • 解説を進行する時に発生する安全事故に対し、徒歩観光事務局と
    ソウル文化観光解説士は責任を負いません。
  • 保護者を伴わない万14歳未満の児童観光客の場合、現場でキャンセルされます。
  • 微細ホコリの非常低減措置発令及びその他の気象悪化(猛暑、台風、暴雨など)によって徒歩観光の運営が困難な場合、すべての予約は一括キャンセルされます。
    観光日前日基準)

予約前の案内事項

  • 予約は観光日を基準として少なくとも1週間前まで可能です。
  • 本コースは、移動弱者(移動が不自由な高齢者、障害者、ベビーカー利用者など)のためのコースです。
  • 補助人(或いは同行人)を伴わない場合は利用できません。
      ※歩行弱者1人当たり少なくとも1人以上の補助人を伴う
      ※電動補助具(電動車椅子、電動スクーターなど)使用者の場合、補助人1当たり歩行弱者最大4人まで同伴可能
  • ご希望の日付及びコースに活動可能な解説士がいない場合、予約はキャンセルされることがあります。
  • 予約を確認するため、徒歩観光事務局(02-6025-0777)で確認のための連絡が行われます。
    (少なくとも5日~1ヶ月前)3回以上電話が通じない場合、予約が取り消されることがあります。
  • 解説を進行する時に発生する安全事故に対し、徒歩観光事務局とソウル文化観光解説士は
    責任を負いません。
  • 微細ホコリの非常低減措置発令及びその他の気象悪化(猛暑、台風、暴雨など)によって
      徒歩観光の運営が困難な場合、すべての予約は一括キャンセルされます。
     (観光日前日基準)

预约前说明事项

  • 观光日基准最少3日前方可进行预约。
  • 下个月的预约可从前月15日开始。
  • 周末及公休日、春秋旺季的预约可早期结束。
  • 进行解说时,对于有可能发生的安全事故,徒步观光事务局和首尔文化观光
    解说员概不负责。
  • 未伴随保护者的未满14岁儿童游客,会在现场取消观光。
  • 因发布微尘紧急低减措施及其他气象恶化(暴热、台风、暴雨等),无法运营 徒步观光时,所有预约会批量取消。
    (观光前日基准)

预约前说明事项

  • 观光日基准最少1日前方可进行预约。
  • 本线路是为了行动不便者(行动不便的高龄者、残疾人、婴儿车利用者等)的路线。
  • 无辅助人员(或同行人)伴随时,不可利用。
    ※ 步行不便者1名至少需要1名以上的辅助人员陪同。
    ※ 电动辅助器具(电动轮椅、电动独轮车等)使用者时,每一位辅助人员最多可陪同 4名步行不便者。
  • 希望观光的日期及线路上无解说员时,预约有可能被取消。
  • 为了确认预约,徒步观光事务局(02-6025-0777)会致电进行确认。
    (最少5日~一个月前) 3次以上无法连接时,预约将被取消。
  • 进行解说时,对于有可能发生的安全事故,徒步观光事务局和首尔文化观光解说员概不负责。
  • 因发布微尘紧急低减措施及其他气象恶化(暴热、台风、暴雨等),无法运营 徒步观光时,所有预约会批量取消。
    (观光前日基准)

預約前說明事項

  • 觀光日基準最少3日前方可進行預約。
  • 下個月的預約可從前月15日開始。
  • 周末及公休日、春秋旺季的預約可早期結束。
  • 希望观光的日期及线路上无解说员时,预约有可能被取消。
  • 進行解說時,對於有可能發生的安全事故,徒步觀光事務局和首爾文化觀光解說員概不負責。
  • 未伴隨保護者的未滿14歲兒童遊客,會在現場取消觀光。
  • 因發布微塵緊急低減措施及其他氣象惡化(暴熱、臺風、暴雨等),無法運營 徒步觀光時,所有預約會批量取消。(觀光前日基準)

預約前說明事項

  • 觀光日基準最少1日前方可進行預約。
  • 本線路是為了行動不便者(行動不便的高齡者、殘疾人、嬰兒車利用者等)的路線。
  • 無輔助人員(或同行人)伴隨時,不可利用。
    ※ 步行不便者1名至少需要1名以上的輔助人員陪同。
    ※ 電動輔助器具(電動輪椅、電動獨輪車等)使用者時,每壹位輔助人員最多可陪同 4名步行不便者。
  • 希望觀光的日期及線路上無解說員時,預約有可能被取消。
  • 為了確認預約,徒步觀光事務局(02-6025-0777)會致電進行確認。
    (最少5日~壹個月前) 3次以上無法連接時,預約將被取消。
  • 進行解說時,對於有可能發生的安全事故,徒步觀光事務局和首爾文化觀光 解說員概不負責。
  • 因發布微塵緊急低減措施及其他氣象惡化(暴熱、臺風、暴雨等),無法運營 徒步觀光時,所有預約會批量取消。 (觀光前日基準)