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Walking along the Seoul City Wall, you can discover diverse stories that are associated with many well-known places in Seoul [Namsan – Inwangsan – Baegaksan (Bugakan) – Naksan – Namsan]. Here is an introduction to the Seoul City Wall storytelling tour course. You can enjoy watching the sunset over Baegaksan Mountain. The nightscape of Seoul viewed from the Seoul City Wall will be another wonderful viewing opportunity for you to experience. The parts of the city walls that are built along the ridge of Naksan (Mountain) form a nice sight to see.

Seoul City Wall Storytelling Tour Course
Seoul City Wall Storytelling Tour; the Stories of Paths consists of twenty themed paths that start at Namsan Mountain, take in Inwangsan Mountain, Bukaksan Mountain, and Naksan Mountain, and end at Namsan Mountain. The paths follow Seoul City Wall walls, and takes in many interesting historic sites and legends.

For more information on Seoul City Wall and other Storytelling Tours available in Seoul, visit our official website at www.seoulstory.org.


Seoul City Wall, a Living Reminder of Seoul's Long History – Traveling Back in Time
Estimated Walk Time: 120 minutes




 Add to Your Knowledge of Seoul. What Is the Seoul City Wall?
The Seoul City Wall is the city walls that surround Hanyang (present-day Seoul). King Taejo, who was the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, built the royal palace, Jongmyo Shrine, and Sajikdan Altar in Hanyang so as to relocate the capital of the kingdom to this location. Then, the Seoul City Wall was built to defend the capital.
In January 1396 (the 5th year of King Taejo's reign), a total of 118,070 people were mobilized from across the country to start the work of building the Seoul City Wall. At that time, the population of Hanyang stood at about 50,000.
In 1421 (the 3rd year of King Sejong's reign), 320,000 people were mobilized from across the country to repair the castle walls and to replace earthen wall sections with stonewalls. Two water gates were also built near Dongdaemun for smooth flow of the Cheonggyecheon (Stream).
In 1704 (the 30th year of King Sukjong's reign), the 5 years of repair work was started. The work was carried out by the troops of the five military units who were in charge of defending the capital. Square-shaped stones sized 30-45cm were heaped solidly like bricks.
Originally, the castle walls measured 18,627 m long. A total of 12,771 m-long sections still maintain their original shape. About 70% of the original castle walls still remain.


The Seoul City Wall storytelling tour course (Estimated Walk Time: 120 minutes)
Hyehwamun Gate ⇔ Doseong-gil ⇔ Naksan Park ⇔ Ihwa Village ⇔ Heunginjimun Gate (Dongdaemun Gate)
The Naksan Section (Hyehwamun - Naksan Park - Ihwa Village – Heunginjimun Gate – Dongdaemun History and Culture Park – Igansumun (Water Gate)) is a leading storytelling tour course of the Seoul City Wall.



Useful Information "Tourist Spots around Hehwamun, Naksan Mountain, and Dongdaemun"


- Dongdaemun Culture and History Park (photo by Lee Chang-jae)
- Ihwa Village (photo by Lee Chang-jae)
- Ogansumun Floodgate (photo by Lee Chang-jae)


Hehwamun Gate



Location Hyehwa-dong, Jongno-gu

 Introduction
Hyehwamun Gate was generally used as the northern entrance to Hanyang City rather than Sujeongmun Gate, which was only opened on special occasions. The gate was also used by Jurchen envoys when they visited the Joseon Dynasty to pay tribute, as they were received in Bukpyeonggwan Hall, which was located where Seoul Design Foundation stands today. Right outside Hyehwamun Gate were shops that made leather shoes for officials to wear at national ceremonies. It is said that carriage bearers and porters would take short breaks outside the gate.

Open hours Accessible 24/7, free admission

How to get there
1. Get off at Hansung University Station Line 4, and leave by exit no.6. Cross the street, and take a left turn towards Hyehwa-dong and you will see Hyehwamun Gate on your right (on the way to the Hyemun Oriental Medicine Clinic).
2. Get off Hyehwa Station, Line 4 and leave via exit no.4. Walk towards the Hansung University entrance and turn towards the Hyemun Oriental Medicine Clinic. You will see Hyehwamun Gate on your way to the clinic.


Stories about the Seoul City Wall – a story about a rickshaw man outside Hyehwamun 

Hyehwamun Gate (also called Dongsomun) was one of the four smaller gates of the Seoul City Wall and was located between the East Gate and the North Gate.A lot of people would use this gate, which served as de facto North Gate instead of Sukjeongmun Gate, which was only opened to traffic on special occasions, following the opening of Gyeongseong-Wonsan Road during the Colonial Period. Envoys from the Jurchen tribes also used this gate when visiting Hanyang to pay tribute. In A Lucky Day, which was a novel written by Hyeon Jin-geon, a rickshaw man named Kim works in this neighborhood. In Myeongnyun-dong and Hyehwa-dong near Hyehwamun Gate, leather shoes makers lived and supplied what was needed at the rites held to pay homage to the nearby Confucian shrine. The area also served as a resting place for Korean A-frame and sedan chair carriers.


Jangsu Village

 Location Jangsu Village, Samseon-dong, Seongbuk-gu

 Introduction

You will find Jangsu village on your way from Hyehwamun Gate to Naksan Park. The village was formed after the division of Korea into two separate states. Refugees from the North and former residents who returned from refugee life built huts and shacks where Jangsu Village is today. Some sources say the region was inhabited by a group of intellectuals who built clean, modern homes there during Japan's colonial rule. The section of Seoul City Wall running from Hyehwamun Gate to Naksan Park is an excellent illustration of the wall's history. The original wall, built by King Taejo, the first king of the Joseon Dynasty, utilized a mix of small-to-medium-sized stones on the top portion while using long, large stones as foundation. You will notice that the wall has a vertical pattern. The parts of the wall that were rebuilt by King Sejong were mostly trimmed into neat squares, while the center tends to bulge out slightly. Larger stones were placed at the bottom while smaller stones were placed on top. Another characteristic is that no stone supports were used. During the reign of King Sukjong, the stones used to build the wall were trimmed into uniform cubes approximately 60 centimeters square, and were tightly stacked with minimal gaps and no stone support.

 How to get there

By Foot : Get off at Hansung University, Line 4, and take exit no. 4. Walk for 20 meters towards Hyehwa Catholic Church. You will see a flight of wooden stairs that eventually leads to Naksan Park. Walk along the stone wall for a while until you see a pavilion, and walk down to Jangsu Village from there. Return to the route via the path you left and continue walking along the wall until you see a stone gate which is the entrance to Naksan Park.

Stories about the Seoul City Wall – Let's walk along the castle walls, and see how they were built and repaired. 

At one section of the path that is located along the castle walls between Hyehwamun Gate and Naksan Park, you can see how magnificent they look and how they have changed. This section of the castle walls was originally built during the reign of King Taejo (1392-1398) and uncut natural stones were used in its construction. Thus, their sizes are irregular and many of them are unusually long or large. The wall is upright.

In contrast, the stones used for sections that were built during the reign of King Sejong (r. 1418-1452) are all regular sized and are rectangular or square. The middle of the castle walls protrudes slightly outwards. Large stones were laid at the bottom of the wall and smaller stones were used in the middle and the top. No supporting stones were used between the stones.

The sections of the castle walls that were built during the reign of King Sukjong (1674-1720) used regular sized stones (about 60 cm x 60 cm) and the wall is upright. It was not necessary to use supporting stones between the stones, as the stones accurately fit against each other.



Stories about the Seoul City Wall - inscribed names of the workers who were in charge of each section and the story of a devoted daughter 

It is said that those who relocated to Seoul after leaving their hometowns formed Jangsu Village, which is located between Hyehwamun Gate and Naksan Park. Dongsomun-dong became a village for intellectuals pursuing an improved way of living during the Colonial Period.

At Jangsu Village, you can enjoy the wonderful sight of the section of the Seoul City Wall that leads up to the Naksan Park down below. At some points, you can see how sections of the walls were repaired. At the outer section of the Dongdaemun Castle Wall Park, you can see stones inscribed with the names of the workers who were in charge of each section and the date that the work was done. This practice was adopted during the repairs that were carried out in 1706 (the 32nd year of King Sukjong's reign) to ensure better workmanship.

A person living in Jangseong, Jeollanam-do was mobilized to build the Seoul City Wall, but became sick and had to stay in bed. At the news, his daughter, Dorijang, hurriedly walked hundreds of kilometers to take care of him. King Taejo presented her with fabrics for making clothing with as a prize.


Naksan Park



 Location San 2-10, Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu

 

Introduction

The mountain gets its name from its ridges, which are said to resemble camel humps (camels are called nakta in Korean). Naksan Park is easily accessible from Daehangno. You will find a path into the mountains and a park. The park, which is surrounded by Seoul City Wall and is a popular getaway among local residents, is well known for its wonderful view of downtown Seoul. There is a small patch of land named Heungdeogi Bat (field). When Prince Bongnim Daegun (later King Hyojong) was taken as a hostage to Shenyang after his father King Injo's surrender to the invading Qing forces, it is said that his servant Hongdeok grew nappa cabbages and other vegetables to make Kimchi for the hostage prince.

When the prince was finally released and allowed to return to his domain, he missed Hongdeok's Kimchi greatly. He bestowed a patch of land halfway up Naksan Mountain upon Hondeok and commanded her to continue making Kimchi for him. The plot of land remains there to this day and is called Hongdeogi Bat.

Open hours Naksan Park Gallery : Open 24 hours Naksan Gallery: Open from 09:00 to 17:00

 How to get there
Subway Get off at Hyehwa Station, Line 4 and take exit no. 2, and walk for 10 minutes towards Marronnier Park and the IBK Bank.
By Bus (G – Branch Bus, B – Trunk Bus, R – Rapid Bus, Y – Circulation Bus)
G 1011, 1012, 1018, 1019, 2112 B 101, 102, 103, 104, 106, 107, 140, 143, 150, 160, 161, 100, 151, 301
R 9101, 9410 Dongdaemun Station, Lines 1 and 4, Exit 5 -> get off at the last stop (Naksan) on a Town bus
G Jongno 03 Changsin Station, Line 6, Exit 3 -> get off the last stop (Naksan) on a Town bus
The parking lot can accommodate 29 vehicles

Stories about the Seoul City Wall – the scenes of Naksan (Mountain) as portrayed by artists and scholars 

During the Joseon Period, many people loved Naksan (Mountain) and saw it as a place of scenic beauty that represented Seoul. The famous painter, Jeong Seon (penname: Gyomjae), painted the views of the place. Dongsomundo, which was painted by him, contains a view of Hyehwamun Gate and its vicinity.

Sin Jam, who was skillful in poetry, calligraphy, and painting, composed a poem associated with Ihwajeong Pavilion in the place during the reign of King Jungjong (1506 – 1544). The poem expresses his longing for the people with whom he sang and danced together with when he was young at the sight of pear blossoms in the courtyard.

It is said that a famous painter, Gang Se-hwang (1713-1791), wrote the characters "紅泉翠璧" (pronounced "hong-cheon-chui-byeok" and literally means, "Red Well and Blue Wall") on a nearby rock, upon marveling at the beauty of a camel-shaped rock to the west of Naksan (Mountain).

In his essay entitled Chunseongyugi, Yu Deuk-gong portrayed the scenic beauty of the place, saying, "The white sand and pine trees are like a piece of art."





Ihwa Village

 Location Hyehwa-dong, Jongno-gu

 Introduction

If you walk from the Norimadang of Naksan Park in the direction of Dongdaemun along the castle walls you will pass what used to be a hidden gate and you will arrive at Ihwa Village. In 2006, 70-plus painters painted nice-looking pictures on the walls and concrete stairs that otherwise looked dreary and they installed structures in an effort to improve the appearance of the low-income neighborhood. Now, the village has become a place that even foreign tourists would like to visit.

 How to get there

In the direction of Naksan Park, Exit 2, Hyehwa Station, Subway Line 4

Stories about the Seoul City Wall – the forced separation of King Danjong from his wife, Queen Jeongsun

Near Ihwa Village, a pavilion comes into view in the distance. After staging a successful coup, King Sejo sent his predecessor and nephew, King Danjong, into exile in Yeongwol, which is hundreds of kilometers away from Seoul. King Danjong's wife, Queen Jeongsun, was forced to stay in a place near Cheongnyongsa Temple in this area. Every day, she went up to the top of the mountain, and missing her husband she would look out in the direction of Yeongwol. A few months later in October 1457, King Danjong was killed by people sent by King Sejo.
The peak where the ill-fated queen missed her husband came to be called Dongmangbong (a peak of longing in the direction of the east). A small monument was erected to mark the spot where the queen missed her husband in Yeongwol.


A path along the Seoul City Wall in Changsin-dong

 Location Changsin-dong, Jongno-gu

 Introduction

If you walk from the Norimadang in Naksan Park down the path along the castle walls in the direction of Dongdaemun Church and Heunginjimun Gate you will feel an old town atmosphere. There used to be many peach and sweet cherry trees in Changsin-dong. The current name Changsin-dong was fixed in 1914 after the two previous villages of Inchang-bang and Sungsin-bang. During the Colonial Period, a large quantity of building stones were needed to build western-style buildings, including the Japanese Governor General's Office in Korea (built in 1926). The area turned into a quarry to meet these needs.

 How to get there

- Dongdaemun Station, Subway Line 1; Changsin Station, Subway Line 6
- One walking from Dongdaemun Station down the path along the castle walls in the direction of Naksan Park can turn to Changsin-dong. If you walk from Hyehwamun Gate down the path along the castle walls in the direction of Heunginjimun Gate, you can turn to Changsin-dong.

Stories about the Seoul City Wall – People who lived in Changsin-dongn

Changsin-dong was the place where Park Soo Keun, who was called the Jean-Francois Millet of Korea, devoted himself to the art of painting in the face dire financial difficulties and diverse illnesses. During the 1950s, he painted his hard-working neighbors on a small wooden floor of a dilapidated house in Changsin-dong. Only after his death did his works come to be recognized as masterpieces. Park Wan Suh portrayed Park Soo Keun as a poor portrait painter in her novel Namok ("Bare Trees").
Another well-known person who lived in Changsin-dong was an independence activist named, Kim Sang Ok. He is known to have killed himself in a shootout with the Japanese police during the Colonial Period after being marked as one of the ones who had thrown a bomb at the Jongno Police Station. He was actively engaged in independence activities while running a blacksmith shop in Changsin-dong. He ran an anti-Japan clandestine organization named Hyeoksindan and published Hyeoksin Gongbo, which was an underground newspaper.


Heunginjimun Gate (Dongdaemun Gate)

 Location 69, Jongno 6-ga, Jongno-gu

 Introduction

Honginjimun Gate was built in 1396, five years into King Taejo's reign, and was rebuilt in 1453, the coronation year of King Danjong. The gate we see today was built again in 1869 by King Gojong six years into his reign. Heunginjimun Gate is a two-story building, five rooms wide from the front and two rooms wide from the side. It is both a precious cultural asset and a model example of the architectural style of the late Joseon Dynasty. Unlike the other eight gates along the old Seoul City Wall, Heunginjimun Gate features protective walls around its perimeter, hidden away from the public eye but designed to provide a good view of the outside. Construction of the gate began in January 1396 and was completed just three months later. Later, the king realized that the gate had been built in a low-lying area and that the mountain to its north was low and even, making it difficult to defend in the event of an invasion. It is said that extra walls were built there to make up for these military shortcomings.

 How to get there

Dongdaemun Station, Line 4, Exit 6

Stories about the Seoul City Wall – Heunginjimun Gate
This gate, one of the four main gates to Seoul, has an ongseong (a semi-circle section of a castle that is outside the gate and that serves as a reinforced defensive position). The ongseong was completed in April 1397 (the sixth year of King Taejo's reign) after three months' work. The ongseong was built in consideration of the gate in a position lower than the surrounding.