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[Seoul] Seoul's River Vistas

Published Date : Nov 30, 2017 / Edited Date : Feb 13, 2019
Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

11월 서울셀렉션 1

The Hangang River is Seoul’s most beautiful landmark. The river is Seoul’s defining geographic feature. Slithering slowly for 40 kilometers through the heart of the city, the waterway is a scenic attraction, a social dividing line and an artery of transportation and trade. So important the river is to the life of Seoul that without it, this city of 10 million people would not exist. In this issue of SEOUL, we visit a handful of spots from which we can appreciate the river and the city to which it gave birth in their terrible immensity.

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Eungbongsan Mountain

Rising less than 100 meters, Eungbongsan Mountain hardly deserves to be called a mountain. What the bluff lacks in height, however, it more than makes up for in views. With panoramic or near panoramic views in two directions - eastward towards Ttukseom and Jamsil, and westward towards Yongsan and Banpo - the hill is one of the best vantage points on the Hangang River. It’s also relatively easy to get to, being just a short walk from the Jungang Line’s Eungbong Station. The views and the convenience make it a very popular destination for Seoul’s photographers, both professional and amateur.

Eungbongsan Mountain ’s biggest draw, photographically speaking, is the bundle of highways, roads, and bridges that stitch together Seongdong-gu, Ttukseom and Apgujeong. The giant loop of the entry ramp of the Yongbigyo Bridge is especially picturesque, resembling as it does a giant concrete bow. The bridges and roads lend themselves to nighttime photography of traffic trails. To do traffic trail photography, use a camera capable of shooting long exposures; naturally, bring a tripod as well. A 10-second exposure should do the trick.

The hill might be a good place to photograph traffic trails, but it’s also a good place to produce panoramic images of the cityscape, including the river. The view eastward, towards Jamsil, is filled with futuristic high-rise buildings, most notably Lotte World Tower, the 123-story column of which rises in the distance from behind a screen of apartments. If framed correctly, it’s a compelling image. With the right tools, putting together a panorama is easier than you may think. Put your camera in manual mode to ensure the image is evenly exposed. Use manual focus, too, or the focus may jump from spot to spot, Take a series of photographs at between 70mm and 200mm, perhaps four to six shots, leaving an overlap of about one third. When you get home, use Lightroom to stitch the photos together as a panorama. You can use the image as is, or crop it to a ratio such as 3:1 or 4:1. To give the photo a more futuristic look, set the white balance on the cool side.

Though Eungbongsan Mountain is most popular at night, it’s a decent spot to take in the sunrise, too, especially in winter, when the sun rises further south. If you’re more of a day person, the best time to visit is spring, when the hill is covered in bright yellow forsythia blossoms. The blossoms also make it a popular picnic spot.

More Info
- Eungbong Station (Jungang Line) exit 1. Walk straight, swing a left at Gwanghui Middle School, and keep walking until you get to the entrance of the park. 

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Haneul Park

Nanjido, where World Cup Park is today, was once an island in the Hangang River, and an apparently beautiful one - its name translates as “isle of orchids and irises.” Though as prone to flooding as the Hangang River’s other sandy islands, Nanjido was a popular place for school picnics. Local farmers raised peanuts and sorghum there, too.

And in 1977, this scene of pastoral bliss was turned into Seoul’s largest garbage dump.

Some 15 years and 92 million tons of garbage later, what was once an island had become two giant mountains of reeking waste. After the landfill was closed in 1993, city officials began stabilizing the mountains of waste in order to transform them into an ecological park. The parkification project took on added significance in 1997 when the spot was named the home of Seoul’s new World Cup Stadium.

Workers completed the land stabilization in 2001; they completed the park the following year, right before the start of the Korea-Japan FIFA World Cup. World Cup Park is divided into several smaller parks: Haneul Park, Noeul Park, Nanjucheon Park and Nanji Hangang Park. The first two, Haneul Park and Noeul Park, were built atop the old mountains of trash. These two great hills of green, rising nearly 100 meters from the bank of the Hangang River, are covered in immense fields of grass and reeds, fields that are crisscrossed by walking trails and punctuated by observation decks.

Noeul Park - or Sunset Park, as the name translates - offers fine views of the sun as it sets over the Hangang River. In this writer’s opinion, however, better views of the river await at neighboring Haneul Park. The sunset views are nearly as good as they are at Noeul Park, and the eastward views toward Yeouido are even better. The vistas grow even more beautiful at night, when floodlights illuminate the iconic dome of the National Assembly building on Yeouido and the orange arches of the Seongsan Bridge.

Haneul Park also boasts some of the most inspiring scenery in the city, at least in autumn, when its vast fields of silver grass blossom. Starting in October, the park’s entirety is a sea of gold and silver, the waves of grass swaying in the cool autumn wind. The best times to visit are the early morning and late afternoon, when the reeds reflect the warm, low-angle light, an illuminary effect that is better seen than read about.

More Info
- World Cup Stadium (subway line 6) exit 1

11월 서울셀렉션 7

Maebongsan Mountain

Maebongsan Mountain is a little-visited hill behind Yongsan’s sprawling Namsan Town apartment complex. To most locals, it’s little more than a neighborhood park, a place where elderly residents can get in their morning’s exercise at the obligatory hilltop exercise set. If you go in the early morning, you’ll find only a handful of hardy, health-conscious grandfathers and grandmothers stretching, lifting weights or doing calisthenics, sometimes to martial music.

Oh, and you’ll also find photographers. A lot of them, depending on the weather.

The photographers are there for the views. Though nobody would call the mountain a major leisure destination, it does offers some of the best views in the city of the Hangang River. Straddling the districts of Yongsan-gu and Seongdong-gu, the peak overlooks an especially picturesque bend in the Hangang River as it meanders through eastern Seoul. From the Koreanstyle observation pavilion at the top, you can enjoy a bird-eye view of the river, its bridges, the Ttukseom and Jamsil areas, the Lotte World Tower and the mountains that lie to the east of the city. Nowhere else offers such a direct, unimpeded view of the river from an elevated location.

Maebongsan Mountain ’s sunrises are particularly inspiring. When the weather cooperates, the river reflects the kaleidoscope in the sky above, the water glowing blue, purple and orange as the sunrise nears. Depending on the time of year, the sun may or may not rise directly over the river itself, an impressive scene indeed, although some photographers prefer times when the sun rises from directly behind the Lotte Tower, a phenomenon likened ad nauseam on social media to the Dark Tower of Mordor in J.R.R. Tolkien’s novel “The Lord of the Rings” and its film adaptations. The peak is a great place to take in the first sunrise of the year, too.

Though this writer highly recommends waking up early to take in the sunrise - and waking up extra early so you can get a good spot to set your tripod - Maebongsan Mountain offers more than just sunrises, though. The peak provides some of Seoul’s best nighttime cityscapes, and the 10 minute walk to the top is much less grueling than the hike up some of the city’s other nighttime vantage points such as Inwangsan Mountain and Namsan Mountain. A particularly good time to visit is on nights of the so-called “supermoon,” when the moon looms large in the sky. The spot offers lovely moonrises over the river, at least when the weather cooperates. To capture the moonrise, bring a powerful zoom lense.

More Info
- From Oksu Station (subway line 3) exit 5 or 6, walk towards the entry to the trail, which is behind the Oksu Geukdong Apartments. This writer, however, usually takes a taxi up the road in front of Seoul Bangsong High School, where there's another park entrance.

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Ichon Hangang Park

The Hangang River as we know and love it today is a recent creation. To be sure, there has always been a river, and a major one at that, the waterway and its surrounding basin having played a critical role in the strategic, political and economic life of the nation since at least the Three Kingdoms Era. The Hangang of yesteryear, however, looked very different from the deep, broad river that now snakes through the heart of Seoul. It was a narrow watercourse, flanked by wide beaches of white sand, the flow of its stream interrupted in places by large sandbars such as Yeouido, where Seoul’s first airport was constructed in 1924. It was a shallow river, too, except when it flooded, which it did with alarming regularity.

In 1982, however, the government broke ground on a megaproject to develop the Hangang River, which had grown more and more polluted since the beginning of Korea’s industrialization drive in the 1960s. Concrete embankments were erected, dams and reservoirs created and water treatment facilities built. Filling up, the river grew to about one kilometer in width and an average of 2.5 meters in depth. The water quality improved, too. By the conclusion of the project in 1986, the river had changed beyond recognition.

As part of the project, public parks were created along the entire 41.5km length of the river, from Haildong in the east to Gaehwa-dong in the west. Hangang Park, as the system is called, is divided into 12 districts: Gwangnaru, Jamsil, Ttukseom, Jamwon, Banpo, Ichon, Yeouido, Yanghwa, Mangwon, Seonyudo, Nanji, and Gangseo. These parks are among the city’s most popular leisure spots, their bike paths, walking trails, sports fields and green spaces offering daily respite to thousands if not millions of Seoulites.

Stretching just over 10 kilometers along the north bank of the river, from the Jungnangcheon Stream in the east to the Wonhyo Bridge in the west, Hangang Park’s Ichon district is this writer’s favorite section, in part because of its great views of Yeouido, the former sandbar having long ago metamorphosed into Seoul’s Manhattan, complete with glass and steel skyscrapers.

Ichon Hangang Park’s real charm, however, is its greenery. Its fields of barley in spring. Its gardens of cosmos flowers in autumn. Meadows of silver grass shimmering in the warm sun of the afternoon. Ichon Hangang Park is a lovely sunset spot, too, the silhouettes of Yeouido’s towers providing an appropriately dramatic backdrop. The cafe atop the Hangang Bridge offers the best views of the sun as it sets over the river. The park is also the best place in the city to take in the Seoul International Fireworks Festival, held every October, although the spectacular views of the fireworks over Yeouido are mitigated somewhat by crowds so dense you may have to walk through or over half the population of the city to get from the river to the park exit.

More Info
- Ichon Station (subway lines 1, 4) exit 4
Tags

#Hangang River #Eungbongsan Mountain #Maebongsan Mountain #Nightviews #View #Seoul Selection #Haneul Park #Han River #Photography #Ichon Hangang Park #Seoul #River #Panorama

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Read before Reservation
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    (At least 5 days~1 month before tour day) Reservation may be canceled when Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office cannot reach you for more than 3 times.
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  • All reservations will be canceled in the event of a weather warning being issued. (e.g. heatwave, typhoon, heavy rain, fine dust, etc.) (Cancellation will be processed immediately upon implementation)
    ※ Please always check the weather warning on the day of the reservation on the site below.
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  • 保護者を同伴しない14歳未満の児童観光客は、現場でキャンセルとなります。
  • 気象特報(猛暑、台風、豪雨、PM2.5)によりウォーキングツアーの運営が難しいと判断された場合、全ての予約は中止とさせて頂きます。(発効後直ちにキャンセルを行う)
    ※ 下記のリンクにてご予約当日の気象特報をご確認ください。
    (https://www.accuweather.com/ja/kr/seoul/226081/weather-forecast/226081)
  • 観光中に発生する安全事故について、ソウル徒歩解説観光事務局とソウル文化観光解説士は責任を負いません。
予約前の案内事項
  • 予約は観光日を基準として少なくとも1週間前まで可能です。
  • 本コースは、移動弱者(移動が不自由な高齢者、障害者、ベビーカー利用者など)のためのコースです。
  • 補助人(或いは同行人)を伴わない場合は利用できません。
      ※歩行弱者1人当たり少なくとも1人以上の補助人を伴う
      ※電動補助具(電動車椅子、電動スクーターなど)使用者の場合、補助人1当たり歩行弱者最大4人まで同伴可能
  • ご希望の日付及びコースに活動可能な解説士がいない場合、予約はキャンセルされることがあります。
  • 予約を確認するため、徒歩観光事務局(02-6925-0777)で確認のための連絡が行われます。
    (少なくとも5日~1ヶ月前)3回以上電話が通じない場合、予約が取り消されることがあります。
  • 解説を進行する時に発生する安全事故に対し、徒歩観光事務局とソウル文化観光解説士は
    責任を負いません。
  • 気象特報(猛暑、台風、豪雨、PM2.5)によりウォーキングツアーの運営が難しいと判断された場合、全ての予約は中止とさせて頂きます。(発効後直ちにキャンセルを行う)
    ※ 下記のリンクにてご予約当日の気象特報をご確認ください。
    (https://www.accuweather.com/ja/kr/seoul/226081/weather-forecast/226081)
预约前说明事项
  • 观光日基准最少3日前方可进行预约。
  • 最多可申请10人。
    (※ 景福宫, 昌德宫, 昌庆宫是例外 最多可申请20人)
  • 在已登记的预约团体中,只接待不超过预约人数的团体,可在前一天17时前追加预约。
  • 下个月的预约可从前一月15日开始。
  • 如有发热或呼吸道症状(发烧、咳嗽、痰液、肌肉痛、鼻塞、咽喉痛等),请避免参与解说活动。
  • 无保护者随同的未满14岁儿童游客,会在现场取消解说活动。
  • 气象特报(酷暑、台风、暴雨 、雾霾 等)导致徒步观光项目暂停时,所有预约将一律被取消。(发布紧急措施时立即取消)
    ※ 请在以下网站上随时确认预约当天的气象特报。
    (https://www.accuweather.com/zh/kr/seoul/226081/weather-forecast/226081)
  • 对于解说活动中发生的安全事故,首尔徒步解说旅游事务局和首尔文化观光解说社不予负责。
预约前说明事项
  • 观光日基准最少1日前方可进行预约。
  • 本线路是为了行动不便者(行动不便的高龄者、残疾人、婴儿车利用者等)的路线。
  • 无辅助人员(或同行人)伴随时,不可利用。
    ※ 步行不便者1名至少需要1名以上的辅助人员陪同。
    ※ 电动辅助器具(电动轮椅、电动独轮车等)使用者时,每一位辅助人员最多可陪同 4名步行不便者。
  • 希望观光的日期及线路上无解说员时,预约有可能被取消。
  • 为了确认预约,徒步观光事务局(02-6925-0777)会致电进行确认。
    (最少5日~一个月前) 3次以上无法连接时,预约将被取消。
  • 进行解说时,对于有可能发生的安全事故,徒步观光事务局和首尔文化观光解说员概不负责。
  • 气象特报(酷暑、台风、暴雨 、雾霾 等)导致徒步观光项目暂停时,所有预约将一律被取消。(发布紧急措施时立即取消)
    ※ 请在以下网站上随时确认预约当天的气象特报。
    (https://www.accuweather.com/zh/kr/seoul/226081/weather-forecast/226081)
預約前說明事項
  • 最晚請於預約日期3天前完成預約。
  • 最多可申請10人。
    (※ 景福宮, 昌德宮, 昌慶宮是例外 最多可申請20人)
  • 已完成預約的團體若人數超過限制,可於前一天下午5點前追加預約。
  • 每月15日將開放下個月的預約。
  • 若有發燒或呼吸道症狀(發燒、咳嗽、咳痰、肌肉酸痛、鼻塞、喉嚨痛),請避免參與本活動。
  • 未有保護者同行的未滿14歲兒童遊客,會在現場取消參與資格。
  • 氣象特報(酷暑、颱風、暴雨 、霧霾 等)而導致徒步觀光無法進行時,將一律取消所有預約。(發布限令時將立即取消)
    ※ 請在以下網站上隨時確認預約當天的氣象特報。
    (https://www.accuweather.com/zh/kr/seoul/226081/weather-forecast/226081)
  • 進行解說時,對於有可能發生的安全事故,首爾徒步解說觀光事務局和首爾文化觀光解說員概不負責。
預約前說明事項
  • 觀光日基準最少1日前方可進行預約。
  • 本線路是為了行動不便者(行動不便的高齡者、殘疾人、嬰兒車利用者等)的路線。
  • 無輔助人員(或同行人)伴隨時,不可利用。
    ※ 步行不便者1名至少需要1名以上的輔助人員陪同。
    ※ 電動輔助器具(電動輪椅、電動獨輪車等)使用者時,每壹位輔助人員最多可陪同 4名步行不便者。
  • 希望觀光的日期及線路上無解說員時,預約有可能被取消。
  • 為了確認預約,徒步觀光事務局(02-6925-0777)會致電進行確認。
    (最少5日~壹個月前) 3次以上無法連接時,預約將被取消。
  • 進行解說時,對於有可能發生的安全事故,徒步觀光事務局和首爾文化觀光 解說員概不負責。
  • 氣象特報(酷暑、颱風、暴雨 、霧霾 等)而導致徒步觀光無法進行時,將一律取消所有預約。(發布限令時將立即取消)
    ※ 請在以下網站上隨時確認預約當天的氣象特報。
    (https://www.accuweather.com/zh/kr/seoul/226081/weather-forecast/226081)