Relatively unknown to tourists, the Gwangnaru neighborhood and the mountains that make up the eastern boundary of Seoul reward the intrepid traveler with a rich history, scenic splendor, stylish hotels and the view up to the heavens you never imagined seeing in Seoul. On New Year's Day, its peaks offer the earliest sunrises in the city, making it a worthy destination for wellwishers, hikers and the sentimental. But there is another scenery that's not to be missed in Gwangnaru: the Seoul Metropolitan Observatory. The site is one of the few places within the city limits where budding Carl Sagans and curious grownups alike can turn their eyes – ably assisted by high-powered telescopes – to the stars.
Where the boats to Gwangju go
It's hard to believe now, but not so long ago – little more than half a century ago, in fact – Seoul was a port city, and the Hangang River was dotted with numerous piers and ferry points, or naru. Gwangnaru, located on what was a sandy bend in the river, was so named because it was from here that ferries to nearby Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do, would depart. It was also the primary unloading spot for boats bringing timber and grain from the province of Gangwon-do; accordingly, its markets thrived in the days of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Up until the 1960s, the south side of the bend was lined by a wide, sandy beach that was a popular leisure spot for Seoulites.
The development of road and rail traffic made the riverine boat trade obsolete, and dam and embankment construction along the Hangang River in the 1960s deepened and widened the waterway, submerging the beach. Today, the neighborhood north of the river is mostly quiet and residential, although not without its charms. A short walk from Exit 1 of Gwangnaru Station (Line 5) brings you to Gwangjang Middle School, where you'll find an alleyway lined by wall murals depicting the story of ancient Goguryeo Kingdom (37 BCE-668 CE), the history of which is intimately tied with nearby Mt. Achasan. Several apartment complexes have likewise been adorned.
Hidden in the alleyways beneath the apartments are plenty of cozy independent cafés. A local favorite is the charming Café Naru, near Gwangjang Middle School, where you can enjoy a well-crafted espresso-based beverage in quaint surroundings for a reasonable price. The café is attached to a home that also serves as a bed and breakfast.
The very friendly Café Naru.
On the Goguryeo Trail
Walk past Gwangjang Middle School and Gwangjang Elementary School and you'll come to a three-way intersection. Turn right and keep walking – up! – until you get to the Achasan Ecological Park and, a little above that, Mt. Achasan itself.
At 287 m, Mt. Achasan isn't Seoul's highest peak, or even its most dramatic, but what it does provide is stunning views both to the west, over the city of Seoul, and to the east, over the Hangang River as its twists and turns through the mountains of Gyeonggi-do. This also makes it a rare peak where you can enjoy both dramatic sunrises and sunsets. Due to its elevated position on the eastern limit of Seoul, the peak gets the earliest sunrises in the city, making it a popular destination on the morning of Jan. 1, when the local authorities host a festival on the mountain to celebrate the new year. The favorite place to see the sunrise is not the peak itself, but so-called "Sunrise Plaza," a scenic overlook that's about a 30-minute hike from the park entrance. Mt. Yongmasan, which is attached to Mt. Achasan by a ridge, is a great place to see Seoul at night.
Occupying such notable heights overlooking the Hangang River, Mt. Achasan has been a strategic prize since the Three Kingdoms Period (57 BCE-668 CE), when the rival kingdoms of Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla waged bloody battles for control of the peak and, by extension, that Hangang River valley. The northern-based Goguryeo Kingdom, which seized the mountain from Baekje in a 475 battle built a series of stone bastions on specific overlooks along the ridgeline. Five of these bastions survive today, including one that has been restored and opened to the public, complete with wooden walking paths. In fact, the mountain's Goguryeo-related historical sites are now included in the Goguryeo History Trail, a 7.8 km walking course that links Mt. Achasan with the Mongchontoseong Fortress area south of the river via the Gwangjin Bridge.
Seoul style
Follow the Goguryeo History Trail from the top of Mt. Achasan down past the small Buddhist hermitage of Daesongam, Achasan Fortress (another historic fortification) and Achasan Ecological Park and you'll come to Walkerhill Road, a tree-lined scenic roadway. The road is especially beautiful in the spring, when the cherry blossoms that flank the street come alive, turning the street into a giant pink tunnel. It is considered an especially good spot for "healing," or reconnecting with nature in order to recover from the spiritual bumps and bruises of modern city life.
Keep following the road until you reach the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill, one of Seoul's most historic luxury hotels. Founded in 1963 as a resort for American officers, the hotel is surrounded by beautiful woods and gardens and yields beautiful views of the Hangang River below. Of architectural note is its Pizza Hall, formerly the Hilltop Bar, a concrete pavilion shaped like a "W" (for Walker) completed in 1963 and designed by the late Kim Swoo-geun, one of Korea's greatest modern architects. Not only does it offer wonderful views of the river but it is also a great place to enjoy a slice amid history.
Just next door to the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill is the W Seoul Walkerhill, the global design icon's first property in Asia. As you'd expect at the W, design is the name of the game here – the WET pool is one of Korea's most breathtaking, and its famous WooBar, with its seemingly ripped-from-the-set-of-"2001: A Space Odyssey" décor and inspiring views of the river and skyline, is one of the trendiest spots to have a drink in the city.
WooBar, W Hotel Walkerhill
Stargazing
At night, head back to Gwangnaru Station and the nearby Seoul Gwangjin Youth Center to check out the Seoul Metropolitan Observatory, a must-visit for future astronomers, SF lovers and couples seeking something different. In fact, the complex includes both a 139-seat planetarium complete with a six-channel Digital Sky 2 projector, a domed observatory with a 600 m refractor telescope and an outdoor observatory with six smaller telescopes of varying length. To get the full experience, make a reservation at the website
(www.astroseoul.or.kr, Korean only) for their constellation observing program. First, you will lay comfortably in the planetarium gazing at the dome screen and learn the legends and science behind the constellations you see in the winter sky. For the next hour you can make use of the equipment in the indoor and outdoor observatories under the guidance of a specialist. If the weather allows, you might even see nebulas many hundred light years away.
Observatory of Gwangjin Youth Center
Spherical planetarium of the Gwangjin Youth Center.
예약 전 안내사항
장기 폭염 예상 기간 프로그램 운영 중단: 7.23. ~ 8.11.
예약은 관광일 기준 최소 3일 전 까지 가능합니다.
3인 미만은 예약이 취소될 수 있습니다.
기존 등록된 예약 중 그룹별 정원을 초과하지 않는 예약에 한하여 1일 전 17시 까지 추가 예약 가능합니다.
다음달 예약은 전달 15일 이 후부터 가능합니다.
발열 또는 호흡기 증상(열, 기침, 가래, 근육통, 코막힘, 인후통 등)이 있는 경우 프로그램 참여를 삼가하여 주시기 바랍니다.
보호자가 동반하지 않는 만 14세 미만의 아동 관광객의 경우 현장에서 취소됩니다.
기상특보(폭염, 태풍, 호우, 미세먼지 등)로 인해 도보관광 운영이 어려운 경우 모든 예약은 일괄 취소됩니다.(발효 즉시 취소처리) ※예약 당일 기상특보를 상시 확인 바랍니다.
해설 진행 시 발생하는 안전사고에 대해서 서울도보해설관광 사무국과 서울문화관광해설사는 책임을 지지 않습니다.
본 코스는 보행약자(거동이 불편한 고령자, 장애인, 유모차 이용자 등)를 위한 코스입니다.
보호자를 동반하지 않을 시 이용이 불가능 합니다.※ 보행약자 1명당 보호자 최소 1인 이상 동반 ※ 전동보장구(전동휠체어, 전동스쿠터 등) 사용자의 경우 보호자 1인당 보행약자 최대 4인까지 동반 가능
희망하시는 날짜 및 코스에 활동가능한 해설사가 없는 경우 예약은 취소될 수 있습니다.
예약확인을 위해 도보관광 사무국(02-6925-0777)에서 확인 연락이 진행됩니다.(최소 5일~한달 전)3회 이상 전화통화가 이뤄지지 않을 시 예약이 취소될 수 있습니다.
해설 진행 시 발생하는 안전사고에 대해서 도보관광 사무국과 서울문화관광해설사는 책임을 지지 않습니다.
미세먼지 비상저감조치 발령 및 기타 기상악화(폭염, 태풍, 폭우 등)로 인해 도보관광 운영이 어려운 경우 모든 예약은 일괄 취소됩니다. (관광일 전날 기준)
Reservations must be made at least three days prior to the tour date.
Additional reservations, one or two days before the tour starts, are only allowed for the tour that is already fixed.
In the case of group tour, more than 10people, please contact us by e-mail.
Reservations for the following month are available from the 15th of the current month.
Please refrain from participating in any tour programs should you be experiencing any symptoms, including fever, coughing, congestion, muscle pain, stuffy nose, and/or sore throat.
Reservations for tourists 14 years & under without an accompanying adult or guardian shall be canceled on site.
All reservations will be canceled in the event of a weather warning being issued. (e.g. heatwave, typhoon, heavy rain, fine dust, etc.) (Cancellation will be processed immediately upon implementation)
※ Please always check the weather warning on the day of the reservation on the site below.
(https://www.accuweather.com/en/kr/seoul/226081/weather-forecast/226081)
The Seoul Guided Walking Tour administration office and tour guide affiliates are not responsible for any accidents that happen to occur during the tour program.
Reservation shall be made at least 1 week before the tour day.
The course is for tourists with mobility problems (Senior, people with disability, stroller user).
You may not use the course without an assistant (or companion) ※ At least one assistant shall accompany a tourist with mobility problem ※ In case of electric assisting device users (electric wheelchair, electric scooter users), one assistant may accompany up to 4 tourists with mobility problem
Reservation may be canceled when a guide is unavailable on the desired date and course.
Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office (02-6925-0777) will contact you to confirm reservation. (At least 5 days~1 month before tour day) Reservation may be canceled when Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office cannot reach you for more than 3 times.
Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office and Seoul culture and tourism guide are not liable for the safety accidents during the Seoul Guided Walking Tour.
All reservations will be canceled in the event of a weather warning being issued. (e.g. heatwave, typhoon, heavy rain, fine dust, etc.) (Cancellation will be processed immediately upon implementation)
※ Please always check the weather warning on the day of the reservation on the site below.
(https://www.accuweather.com/en/kr/seoul/226081/weather-forecast/226081)