Chuseok is one of Korea`s most important and celebrated holidays. It is the equivalent of Thanksgiving and is characterized by songpyeon, mass migration and ritual. On Chuseok, people visit ancestral graves to thank their ancestors for a good harvest and the well-being of the family. This year, it will take place on September 25, although there will be a five day national vacation from September 22-26.
Chuseok stretches back hundreds of years. In fact, it has such a long history that its origin is uncertain, although we do know that it stemmed from an ancient religion in which the cycles of the moon played a key role and is representative of the day when the moon is at its biggest and brightest, symbolizing the harvest season. The holiday is also thought to have begun as an important weaving competition during the ancient Korean kingdom of Silla, but since developed into a general harvest celebration.
Food plays a crucial role in this holiday as the extended family eats together as a way to give thanks for being blessed with a good harvest and good health. Because Korean society is no longer agrarian, this is largely a symbolic gesture. Traditionally, this holiday has been burdensome for women who toiled away preparing an enormous amount of food for both the deceased ancestors and the large family who gathered together. But, with changing gender roles and modern technology, the burden has been somewhat lifted and now Chuseok is a holiday everyone can enjoy.
The most ubiquitous food during this time is songpyeon, a small crescent-shaped rice cake made from rice flour with an assortment of mung bean, soy bean, chestnut, honey and sesame inside. Steamed on a bed of fresh green pine needles, the taste is sweet, fresh and woody, with the added bonus of being warm, soft and moist. Interestingly red pepper, which makes an appearance in most Korean meals, either raw, dried or as a paste, is absent from Chuseok cuisine. This is because it is thought that the bright red color and pungent smell drive away spirits of departed ancestors.
There are many customs that take place during this time that are still observed to this day. One of the most common is visiting ancestral graves. Here, family members devotedly preen the graves and perform ancestral rites ceremonies before the hillside tombs of their deceased elders. This is a way to remember the deceased and show gratitude for the abundance they have received with the autumn harvest. Part of this ritual involves pouring soju (Korean alcohol) on the graves.
Another ceremony involves offering food to the ancestors. This is done inside the house, usually in the living room by the males of the family who light incense which surround the beautifully presented food. The room is then vacated so that the spirits can come and eat; later, the family will eat the leftovers. After this, traditional Korean games are played by both young and old which is an enjoyable and relaxing way to end this cherished holiday.
Because city dwellers usually travel to their ancestral hometowns in the countryside for this day, "Chuseok" is synonymous with "mass migration." During this period, literally millions of Seoulites make their way to their hometowns which means the roads are congested with travelers trapped in their cars for hours on end (sometimes up to twelve hours) as the traffic moves at a snail`s pace. Also, it is an inconvenient time for tourists in that buses, trains and flights are usually booked solid months in advance. Many businesses also close on this day. However, on the upside, Seoul, in its near-abandoned state, is quiet and empty, meaning that you can get by without the usual hustle and bustle. In fact, years ago, Seoul used to come to a standstill and shutdown for the day. These days, however, most tourist attractions, major shopping districts and restaurant chains stay open. See below for a more specific list.
Major palaces and folk villages really go to town in creating an atmosphere and experience rich in tradition for both Koreans celebrating Chuseok and tourists looking for an unforgettable cultural experience. Be a spectator at a traditional wrestling match to find the strongest man in the village or join a circle of singing and dancing mothers and daughters dressed in gorgeous silk hanbok. For those with a competitive bent, participate in some traditional games such as arrow throwing. See the following for detailed information.
Folk Villages
From September 24-26, the Korean Folk Village and Namsangol Hanok Village will offer traditional performances and participatory events and games.
Palaces
From September 24-26, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changgyeonggung Palace, Deoksugung Palace and Changdeokgung Palace will allow visitors to enter free of charge if they wear traditional Korean hanbok.
During this period, traditional games can be played for free at the front of Changgyeonggung Palace and inside Deoksugung Palace. These games include seesaw jumping, arrow throwing, and tassel kicking.
Getting There by Subway
Korean Folk Village: Suwon Station, Line 1,
www.koreanfolk.co.kr
Namsangol Hanok Village: Chungmuro Station, Line 3 and 4,
www.hanokmaeul.org
Gyeongbokgung Palace: Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3,
www.royalpalace.go.kr
Changgyeonggung Palace: Anguk Station, Line 3,
english.cha.go.kr
Changdeokgung Palace: Anguk Station, Line 3,
eng.cdg.go.kr
Deoksugung Palace: City Hall Station, Line 1 and 2,
jikimi.cha.go.kr
Open
Chain restaurants including TGI Friday`s, Bennigan`s, Outback Steakhouse. Some restaurants in the Gangnam and Insadong areas will also be open; Myongdong shopping area, Itaewon shopping area and COEX mall will be open.
Closed
Markets (including Namdaemun, Dongdaemun); department stores; Insadong shopping area; most restaurants and shops, especially small, family-run businesses.
