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Navigating Flea Markets and Vintage Shops : Discovering Lost Time in Dongmyo

With new cafes, brand stores, and ever-changing trends, Seoul maintains a dynamic momentum, always pushing forward.

In Dongmyo, however, time seems to flow a little slower. Here, you won't find uniform, polished shopping streets or an artificially manufactured vintage aesthetic. Decades-old clothes, film cameras, vinyl records, furniture, and household goods sit quietly on street corners, waiting for a new owner.

As vintage culture regains popularity among the younger generation, a growing number of people are visiting Dongmyo discover their own style among the layers of history.

The history of Dongmyo dates back to the Joseon Dynasty. The street takes its name from the Donggwanwangmyo Shrine. Following the Imjin War, at the request of the Ming Dynasty, Joseon built this shrine in 1601 to honor the Chinese military general Guan Yu. Over time, the area around Dongmyo evolved into a major hub for second-hand trading in Seoul, carrying on the tradition of the Hwanghak-dong Flea Market.

1. Finding Your Own Treasure at the Flea Market

The moment you step out of Dongmyo Station, the scenery shifts dramatically. There are no neatly lined storefront windows or meticulously curated streetscapes. Instead, a seemingly endless flea market unfolds along the old stone walls. An eclectic mix of odds and ends, such as worn home appliances, second-hand clothes, vintage watches, tableware, tools, and toys, are laid out on street stalls, sometimes neatly, often chaotically, all awaiting the touch of a new owner.

The true charm of Dongmyo lies not in any specific merchandise, but in the thrilling possibility of stumbling upon absolutely anything. Someone might be crouched in front of an old radio, inspecting it closely; another might be rummaging through a pile of trinkets to find the perfect prop; while others simply enjoy a leisurely stroll along the ancient walls, taking in the sights. Every stall is like a small treasure chest preserving traces of a different era, containing the remnants of lives lived in different times.

Walking past the flea market and following the road, you'll eventually enter the Changsin-dong Stationery and Toy Street. With a history spanning over 40 years, this street was once the largest wholesale market for stationery and toys in Korea. Today, it still retains a deep, human warmth, drawing in young adults eager to relive their childhood memories.

Recently, one of the most popular items on this street is the stress-relieving squishy toy known as "Mallangi". The fronts of most shops are bustling with people chatting, endlessly squishing the toys in their hands, and earnestly comparing colors and textures. Look closely, and you'll realize that most of them are not  children, but young adults in their 20s and 30s.

Toys, once the exclusive domain of children, have now become a source of joy for adults. Some joys don't disappear when we grow up; they simply return to us in different forms.

If the thrill of the flea market lies in unearthing hidden gems, the vintage shops around Dongmyo feel more like freshly curated collection spaces.

Located not far from Dongmyo Station, CEMT is a highly curated vintage shop beloved by young people. Unlike the heaps of clothes at the flea market, every item here has been handpicked and styled by the owner. Clothing, hats, and accessories from various eras are neatly displayed, reminiscent of a lovingly decorated showroom.

The highlight is the second floor. Various vintage props and sculptures hang between wooden pillars, harmonizing with the apparel, furniture, and lighting to create an immersive atmosphere. Even if you have no plans to shop, taking a slow walk through the store feels like wandering through an art exhibition.

In contrast, PURPLE GARAGE, tucked deep within a narrow alley, exudes an entirely different vibe. There is no bustling market noise, nor a constant stream of crowds. The ground floor and basement spaces are filled with vintage clothes and accessories imported from Japan and the United States. The shop is so delightfully quiet that you instinctively slow your pace.

The most striking detail is a small refrigerator tucked in a basement corner, stocked with bottled water that anyone is free to take and drink. Such thoughtful consideration removes the sense of distance often found in commercial spaces, conveying the warm hospitality unique to a small neighborhood shop. It's the kind of local store you want to visit again and again, not just a place to hunt for trendy items.

You won't find spacious, brightly lit exhibition areas or sophisticated displays here. Afternoon sunlight filters obliquely through the doorway, settling over rows of old cameras and lenses, adding a tranquil atmosphere to the entire space. As you pick up a camera, you can't help but imagine the landscapes it must have captured and the lives it once documented.

If Dongmyo collects the time of a city, Manmulsangdan (General Goods Store) is a collection of the world by a single person.

Upon entering the shop, the owner was looking down, carefully polishing an old bowl. He didn't rush to greet customers or push his merchandise; instead, he remained deeply focused on the bowl in his hands, as if tending to a lifelong friend.

It was only after striking up a conversation that I learned the owner had been collecting Chinese antiques for over 20 years and had previously completed a graduate program at the Central Academy of Fine Arts in China. The shop itself has been running for 30 years. He mentioned that his greatest joy is traveling the globe to find pieces he loves and bringing them back to Korea.

Bowls, ornaments, furniture, and miscellaneous goods from Korea, China, Japan, and even parts of Europe all converge in this small space, completing the owner's unique collector's universe.

Further inside lies another hidden underground room. With no set viewing route or deliberately designed exhibition layout, objects from vastly different eras occupy every nook and cranny. Leaving the shop, it suddenly dawned on me that what is truly on display here isn't just antiques, but the relentless passion one person has built up over decades.

A perfect final stop for your Dongmyo journey is Yeeum Records. The tightly packed vinyl records, album covers from various eras, wooden record cabinets, and vintage audio equipment make you feel as though you've stepped into another decade.

The shop boasts a collection of LPs gathered from all over the world, covering a wide spectrum of genres from jazz and rock to classical music. Even if you aren't a hardcore vinyl enthusiast, you will easily fall for the charm radiating from this space.

Although digital music has permeated our daily lives, there are still people who take their time flipping through records one by one. They carefully slide a record out, study the cover, and gently place it back in its spot.

Here, the very act of choosing a record is a joy in itself. What you take home might not just be a simple LP, but a precious memory of your own.

Yeum Records

 Room 201, 41 Jong-ro 58-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul (서울시 종로구 종로 58길 41, 201호)

 Mon–Wed 10:15–18:30, Thu–Sat 10:15–19:00

 Subway Lines 1/6, Dongmyoap Station, Exit 3, 247m

Dongmyo might not be the trendiest neighborhood in Seoul, but it is undeniably the place that most compels you to slow your pace. Some come searching for clothes, others buy old cameras, and some simply spend their entire afternoon leisurely strolling between the streets and small shops.

Starting from the Donggwanwangmyo Shrine, wandering through the Dongmyo Flea Market, and exploring the Changsin-dong Stationery and Toy Street, vintage boutiques, collector's havens, and the LP record shop, an afternoon effortlessly slips away.

Perhaps when we leave Dongmyo, what we truly take with us isn't a specific object, but memories of time, people, the city, and an entirely different side of Seoul.