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What if I let you in on a secret? With the rapid change of seasons, our window to enjoy autumn foliage in Seoul is narrow. Given the limited time, it’s essential to choose your destination wisely. But don’t worry—there’s no need to travel far to experience stunning autumn scenery in downtown Seoul. In the tiny neighborhood of Jeong-dong, a scenic pathway follows the stone wall of Royal Deoksugung Palace, where rows of majestic Ginkgo trees create the perfect autumn photo opportunity, making it one of the best things to do in Jeong-dong during the season.

There isn’t a more romantic stroll in the city than the Deoksugung Stone Wall Path, but I should warn you—according to an urban legend, couples who walk this path together end up breaking up. Couples may also prepare for a new season of life as the trees change color. If you believe in such tales, it might even test the strength of your relationship! – I’ve walked this path several times, and my wife and I are still together.

Urban legends often have roots in history. Until 1995, the Supreme Court, which also housed the Family Court, was located at the end of the Stone Wall trail. For over 70 years, couples would walk this trail to file for divorce—not a legend. The courthouse was converted into the Seoul Museum of Art around 20 years ago, attracting art-loving crowds. I recommend!

Despite its small size, this neighborhood is steeped in history and played a crucial role in Korea's modernization. It is where Korea first encountered the Western world and vice versa. As a result, the area is dotted with Western-style buildings—schools, churches, and embassies—dating back to 1890-1938, making it an ideal stop on a Seoul history tour.

One story that adds an extra "wow" factor to this beautiful neighborhood is that of King Gojong. One notable building, recently restored, is the tower of the Old Russian Legation. After Japan assassinated Queen Min in 1895, King Gojong fled Gyeongbokgung Palace and sought refuge at the Russian Legation. He then expanded Deoksugung Palace (called Gyeongun Palace then) and made it his new seat of power. This period marked a pivotal moment in Korea’s history, making it an intriguing story. The American (now the Ambassador’s residence) and British legations still stand, while the Russian embassy relocated to a larger building nearby. All are visible along the Stone Wall Path. 

The area is also home to many of Korea’s "firsts." I love discovering these historical milestones. Next to the charming roundabout is Korea’s first Methodist church, arguably one of Seoul’s most stunning. There’s also the Appenzeller Memorial Museum inside Korea’s first modern secondary school, founded in 1885, and Ewha Girls' High School Centennial Hall, the country’s first school for girls. Fun fact: this was where Yu Gwan-sun, Korea’s most famous young independence activist, studied.

While Jeong-dong offers something for history buffs, art lovers, and autumn foliage enthusiasts, it also houses the Royal Deoksugung Palace. This palace is often overlooked, and wrongly so, because it’s my favorite. Unlike Seoul’s other royal palaces, Deoksugung blends traditional Korean architecture with Western-style buildings, like Seokjojeon Hall, where foreign guests were received and the king resided. It reflects King Gojong’s efforts to modernize Korea at the end of the Joseon Dynasty. Deoksugung is peaceful, more serene, and less crowded than Gyeongbokgung or Changdeokgung . It even features a changing of the guard ceremony—a perfect tourist attraction!

Believe it or not, this is just the tip of the iceberg—Jeong-dong has many more stories waiting to be uncovered, making it an ideal “Seoul day trip” destination. But I’ll leave those for you to discover. Just don’t forget, Jeongdong Observatory offers the perfect way to end your day, with a breathtaking view of the neighborhood and a chance to spot “doomed” couples walking along the Deoksugung Stone Wall.