visitseoul.net

As September ushers in a refreshing break from the summer heat, Seoul's streets beckon once more, inviting exploration without the burden of sweat or the constant search for shade. Finding neighborhoods steeped in tradition can challenge newcomers in a city that evolves at lightning speed. But nestled between the bustling districts of Insa-dong and the Royal Jongmyo Shrine, Ikseon-dong stands as a unique blend of the old and the new. 



This charming Hanok village, known for its picturesque traditional Korean houses, has transformed into a vibrant hub of boutique shops, cozy cafes, and diverse restaurants. Surprisingly, despite its central location, Ikseon-dong was largely overlooked until the early 2010s. It was a fading neighborhood until businesses began moving into the Hanok buildings, sparking a remarkable revival.



Ikseon-dong’s allure lies in its rich history as Seoul's first planned residential area, a rarity in its time. The neighborhood was meticulously designed with a grid of narrow alleys, making exploration a delightful experience. In the early 1920s, during Japan's colonial rule, modern urban developer Jeong Se-gwon purchased a large plot of land in Ikseon-dong. Determined to keep the area out of Japanese hands, Jeong divided the large Hanok houses into smaller homes, selling them exclusively to Koreans. This bold move preserved Korean heritage and laid the foundation for the Ikseon-dong we know today—a neighborhood deeply rooted in Korea’s independence movement.



While the abundance of Hanok houses and the grid-like alleyways aren’t immediately apparent from the ground, there’s a secret worth sharing. At the edge of the Hanoks lies Nagwonjang, a former inn now transformed into a bakery café. Both its interior and exterior retain traces of its past, with the bakery owner curating retro and vintage furniture to create a quirky atmosphere. But the real treasure here is the rooftop view. On a clear September or October day, there’s nothing better than enjoying a hot coffee (yes, I’m still Dutch) while taking in the miniature streets below. The view captures the charm of Ikseon-dong perfectly, with couples and friends scattered about, searching for their next favorite café.





Ikseon-dong's fascinating history doesn't end there. At the neighborhood's northern end, where the Ibis Hotel now stands, was once Korea’s largest Yojeong, Ojinam—a traditional entertainment house for men, attended by Gisaeng. For those unfamiliar, Gisaeng was Korea’s equivalent to the Japanese Geisha, though the Gisaeng tradition is even older. 

Ojinam opened in 1953 and was a hotspot where Korea’s political elite gathered to broker deals behind closed doors. Though Ojinam is long gone, its legacy endures. The presence of Gisaeng drew in Hanbok and fortune teller shops, many of which still operate in and around Ikseon-dong, offering a glimpse into the area’s rich cultural heritage.



Come and wander through the narrow alleys of Ikseon-dong. By day, Ikseon-dong buzzes with activity, perfect relaxing spots, and cafes with fantastic views. If you can’t decide, join the eager youngsters waiting in line to try the latest trendy bite or drink.

As night falls, the atmosphere shifts. While the heart of Ikseon-dong quiets down, its edges come alive differently. The streets light up with the glow of red tents—Pojangmacha—where people gather to enjoy street food and drinks. These tents, a staple of Seoul’s street culture for decades, are becoming increasingly rare in the city. Yet, in Ikseon-dong, they remain as popular as ever, preserving a cherished tradition that brings a sense of community and nostalgia to the bustling metropolis.



Ikseon-dong is more than just a trendy destination; it’s a living testament to Seoul’s ability to blend history with modernity harmoniously. It offers something for everyone—scenic views, rich history, trendy spots, delicious food, beautiful architecture, vibrant nightlife, and so much more. So, what are you waiting for? Plan your Ikseon-dong visit now!