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I understand how exhausting the Korean summer can be, especially in August. The intense heat and stifling humidity can make stepping outside feel like a chore. But what if I told you there's a hidden gem near downtown Seoul, perfect for escaping the urban jungle's heat? A place rich with mystery and fascinating history awaits you.

West of Gyeongbokgung Palace, within the Seochon Hanok Village, lies the charming neighborhood of Ogin-dong. Here, at the foot of the majestic Inwangsan Mountain, you'll discover the serene Suseongdong Valley. As you journey past traditional city hanoks, cozy cafes, and trendy restaurants, you’ll suddenly find yourself in a breathtaking natural sanctuary.

Suseongdong roughly translates to “the clear sound of water,” which perfectly describes the tranquil ambiance of this valley. The valley is a vital source for the Cheonggyecheon Stream, a popular downtown attraction. Not far from the entrance, you can immerse yourself in the cool, refreshing stream, surrounded by beautiful rocks. Despite its beauty, the valley remains surprisingly uncrowded—a welcome respite from the bustling city. You'll often find a few children playing in the water, an artist sketching the scenery, or someone reading a book, all accompanied by the soothing sounds of nature.

With my bare feet in the cold water and shaded by towering pine trees, I relished the view of a small waterfall and an ancient pavilion by the stream. The oppressive summer heat seemed to vanish. Nearby, I noticed a peculiar stone bridge, sparking my curiosity.

I discovered that the valley was a favorite retreat for scholars, poets, and painters during the Joseon Dynasty (1393 – 1894). The renowned Joseon painter Gyeomjae Jeong Seon (1676 – 1759) immortalized the valley in his “Eight Scenes of Jang-dong.” In his artwork, a stone bridge stands out, over which four scholars cross. Remarkably, this same stone bridge still exists in the valley today. By standing in a certain spot, you can easily recognize the valley depicted in Jeong Seon’s painting and imagine where he might have sat while capturing this serene scene.

However, the valley hasn't always been this picturesque. In the early 1970s, the construction of the Ogin Sibeom Apartments to address the housing shortage led to the valley's deterioration. Fortunately, between 2008 and 2012, these apartments were demolished, and efforts were made to restore the Suseongdong Valley, guided by Jeong Seon’s painting. As a testament to its turbulent history, a section of the Ogin Apartments' wall and foundation has been preserved for visitors, adding another layer of intrigue to this enchanting place.

For those willing to brave the heat and explore beyond the lower part of the valley, there’s more to discover. A 20-minute climb up the stairs leads to the Seokguram Grotto, a stunning small Buddhist sanctuary. Facing the grotto, turn right and follow the path through a boulder’s opening until you reach a sacred natural spring. Admire the water dripping from the rocks into a small pool with tadpoles, and then turn to face the city. The view through the boulders is nothing short of epic, offering a panoramic vista of Seoul, including landmarks like Gyeongbokgung Palace, the Blue House, Namsan Tower, and Lotte Tower. 

Now, for the truly adventurous, let me give you another secret that only a few people know, including Koreans. At the Seokguram Grotto, a Korean hiker tipped me about the ‘Mountain Grandmother.” This grandmother, known as “Grandmother Jang Hui-bin,” is a mannequin tucked away in Inwangsan Mountain and can only be reached through a hidden path southwest of the Seokguram Grotto. After many ropes and rock climbing, I found her. Jang Hui-bin was Joseon King Sukjong’s consort. The legend says that Lady Jang Hui-bin prayed at this place to receive King Sukjong’s favor while still a court lady. Here, she could see the palace during her prayers. Now she is deified at this shamanic altar – a bit creepy if you ask me. But like I said, this one is for the adventurous.