Nestled in the humble shadow of bustling Haebangchon, or "HBC" for short, Huam-dong is an enchanting neighborhood waiting to be discovered. This hidden gem in Seoul boasts a unique blend of rich history, striking architecture, and vibrant community spirit. Join me as I uncover the captivating allure of Huam-dong, revealing why it has quickly ascended to one of my top ten favorite neighborhoods. If you are looking for things to do in Huam-dong, this guide will walk you through the best spots.
My adventure begins at the iconic 108 Stairway, a historic pathway where each step whispers tales of the past. Whether you descend or take the funicular elevator, you are rewarded with a breathtaking view of Huam-dong. Standing at the foot of the stairs, I felt immense respect for older people who, until 2018, had no choice but to conquer them daily.
Most Seoulites and tourists don’t know the significance of the 108 Stairway. Constructed in 1943 during the Japanese Occupation, it once led to the now-vanished Gyeongseon Hoguk Shrine. This Shinto shrine honored fallen soldiers from the Sino-Japanese and Pacific Wars, leaving behind a poignant relic of Korea’s intricate and often painful history.
I have made it my mission to uncover remnants of the past that blend so seamlessly into the present that only a few notice their legacy. Huam-dong is one of those. As I wandered deeper into its old alleys, I noticed various housing types. One style caught my eye—architecture rare elsewhere in the city yet prominent here.
As I meandered through Huam-dong’s charming streets, an elderly resident shared captivating stories of wealthy Japanese families who settled here during colonial times. Their remarkable homes, known as “culture houses,” feature Western exteriors with Japanese interior elements. With around 300 still in good condition, Huam-dong has transformed into an outdoor architectural museum. For a truly immersive experience, stay overnight at the beautifully preserved Jiwoljang Guesthouse and see a culture house from within with your own eyes.
As I explored further, I noticed renovated houses adorned with a distinctive logo. Scattered throughout Huam-dong, these mark the innovative Project HUAM—a “shared space” initiative to foster community. I discovered a shared kitchen, living room, library, exhibition studio, baking space, and even a private spa-like bath within these spaces. A chance encounter with the founder revealed that many single-person households benefit from these communal areas. I was inspired by how this project preserves old buildings while fostering a sense of community. Next time, I plan to bring my friends to enjoy a K-drama marathon in the shared cinema room.
No neighborhood is complete without a traditional market, and Huam Traditional Market is truly exceptional. During the day, its shops and restaurants buzz with activities, serving the local community. But as night falls, the market's corridors come alive with the enchanting sounds of jazz from the Sounddog Jazz Bar, where live performances captivate audiences every night of the week. You heard that right, every night of the week.
My true love for Huam-dong stems from its vibrant community and diverse spirit. Following a local friend’s advice, I relaxed in a quaint park with an iced caramel latte. Within minutes, I saw seniors playing harmonica, children joyfully running around, and families enjoying gimbap, perfectly embodying Huam-dong’s rich community spirit.
As the "neighborhood man," I can attest that I haven't encountered this often. This might be precisely why Huam-dong feels so homely—a rarity in today's rapidly-developing megacities. It's a place where the past and present harmoniously coexist, inviting you to explore and, like me, perhaps fall deeply in love with its timeless charm.
When planning your visit to this Seoul hillside neighborhood, make sure to experience the local culture and the unique architectural heritage that Huam-dong has to offer. Oh, and before I forget, finish your walk at the cafe "Comfort" for Huam-dong's best view.