January marks the beginning of a new year and the perfect opportunity to uncover hidden gems. This time, I want to introduce you to a market teetering on the edge of losing its underdog status—a place still undiscovered by the masses (so hurry if you want to avoid the tourist influx). You may have heard of Gyeongdong Market, one of Seoul’s largest traditional herbal medicine and agricultural markets. When I say large, I mean LARGE. An estimated 70% of Korea’s herbal medicine ingredients come from here, yet it remains far less famous than Gwangjang or Namdaemun Markets. (On Sunday many shops are closed, especially in the herbal medicine market).
I always start my market stroll at Jegi-dong Station, Line 1, Exit 2. As I climb the escalator, the crowd transitions to the older generation. Just one step out, and already I must carefully avoid vendors selling dried roots and snacks on the street to make ends meet. Instantly, a strong, unfamiliar smell hits me. It’s hard to describe, but it reminds me of the smell of licorice candy (drop) from the Netherlands. That distinct scent signals only one thing: we’ve arrived.
To the left, the wooden gate to Seoul Yangnyeong Market welcomes me. This herbal medicine hub dates back 300 years to the Joseon Dynasty, and as a Westerner, it feels like uncharted territory—and I love it. My eyes wander across the unusual products: dried deer antlers, frogs, hornet nests, and even seahorses, which the merchant claims promote vitality. The list of remedies is endless.
For the curious, the Yangnyeongsi Herb Medicine Museum is a must-visit for only 1,000 won. It unpacks the significance of these ingredients and the area’s history. One fun fact? The herbal market was deliberately located outside Seoul’s old city walls during the Joseon Dynasty to distance the ill from the healthy—a fascinating glimpse into ancient urban planning.
But the herbal market is just the beginning. As you keep walking, Gyeongdong Market reveals itself in all its sprawling, chaotic glory. The smells evolve from sharp herbal notes to the earthy aroma of fresh produce and the tang of dried seafood. Here, the market transforms from a world of remedies to a feast for the senses, offering a completely different experience, one that might appeal to the MZ generation with its increasingly Instagrammable corners.
My favorite stop for coffee is the Starbucks Kyungdong 1960 branch, hidden on the third and fourth floors. Opened in 2022, it’s housed in the former Gyeongdong Theater, and the space still feels like a theater with its preserved architectural elements. For every item sold, 300 Korean won is donated to preserving Gyeongdong Market—a wonderful initiative. Be aware that it is usually quite busy, I didn’t manage to get a seat.
With my body warmed up again, it’s time to dive into the basement. Gyeongdong Market is unique in how it blends old and new, and its basement is an hidden gem for adventurous explorers. Here lies a gateway to skatefish heaven, known as hongeo in Korean. Fermented skate, with its sharp smell and taste, is considered a food challenge for non-Koreans. It’s fun, bold, and worth a try.
Another rising star in the market is Kim Mi-ryeong, also known as Imokase, the beloved chef from Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars. Her restaurant, Andongjip Son Kalguksu, has become a must-visit for her praised traditional food and newfound celebrity status. Whether you watch her on Netflix first or visit her restaurant, one thing is certain—you’ll need a reservation! Don’t hesitate to try one of the restaurants around her shop; while they may not carry the fame, they are just as delicious.
This market stimulates the senses in every way, and while locals seem to navigate it effortlessly, it’s still a maze where I get lost every single time. What struck me most, though, is that unlike Seoul’s more popular markets, Gyeongdong Market is still relatively affordable. My favorite bungeoppang (fish-shaped pastry filled with sweet red bean paste) stall sells four pastries for just 1,000 won. Try finding that deal anywhere else in Seoul—you won’t. On a cold winter day, there’s no better street snack to enjoy.
This article only scratches the surface of Gyeongdong Market. It’s a place for all generations, and I highly recommend exploring, getting lost in, and embracing the beautiful messiness it has to offer before the masses catch on. And don’t worry if you catch a cold while wandering—this market has just the remedy for you.