As a Dutchie, it should be no surprise that I love cycling. But where would a Dutchman, 8,740 km from home in Seoul, South Korea, prefer to bike? If you ask me, my number one go-to place is the bicycle lane along the Hangang River. Imagine a perfectly paved road with the best city scenery on either side: Seoulites playing sports, couples feasting on chicken and beer on cute picnic blankets, and a gentle breeze from the water. The Hangang River is an all-season gem, offering an escape for all generations. But did you know it conceals even more wonders within? I'm referring to its islands. Each island has unique charm and activities, perfect for a Seoul summer escape. So, hop on your bike, and let me introduce you to three enchanting islands.
Seonyudo Island
First stop, Seonyudo. This island, accessible over the Yanghwadaegyo Bridge connecting Hongdae and the Dangsan area, is a history and nature treasure trove. Why save the best for last when you can dive right in?
During the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), Seonyudo was a scenic hill where Korean musicians, painters, and writers found inspiration from the majestic Hangang River and distant city views. Fast-forward to the Japanese Occupation (1910–1945), and the hill was excavated for construction projects—bye—bye, hill. By 1978, the island transformed into a water filtration plant for southwest Seoul. In 2000, the plant shut down and was returned to nature and the people.
Today, the skeleton of the old filtration plant adds an aesthetic industrial vibe. Picture old water basins filled with green moss, frogs, fish, and dragonflies dancing over their reflections. The sounds of the city fade away, replaced by birdsong. It’s a tranquil haven where you might find someone napping in the grass or on a cement wall under the shade. This island is a perfect example of a well-repurposed industrial complex, and today, young generations flock here to use the repurposed plant as the backdrop for their photos. I don’t blame them; Seonyudo Island is a must-visit Hangang River island.
Yeouido
Next, we roll to Yeouido, a well-known tourist destination in Seoul—and for good reason. It might not feel like an island anymore, but a narrow Hangang River tributary still circles it if you look closely at the map. The island is famous for the Hangang River’s most iconic riverbank, the financial district, and the National Assembly. But my favorite spot? Yeouido Park, the “Central Park” of Seoul.
Imagine a green enclave surrounded by skyscrapers, where office workers flock during lunchtime for a much-needed break. The park has an intriguing history, transforming from Korea’s first airport to Park Chung Hee’s May 16 Square (for military parades and large public gatherings) to the wholesome city park it is today. As I cycled around, I noticed something new: a moon-shaped helium balloon ride in the center of the park, offering passengers a view of the cityscape from 130 meters up. Officially named the SEOULDAL (lit. "Seoul Moon"), it's currently in its trial operation phase, but I can’t wait to try it. Soon, we might need more than one day to explore all Yeouido Island offers.
Bamseom Island
The third island is a bit of a mystery: Bamseom Island, visible from Yeouido’s riverbanks but off-limits to visitors. This uninhabited, restricted area is the city’s only wetlands, teeming with life and home to many plants and birds. The island was named for its shape, as "Bamseom" translates to "chestnut island." Though I can’t set foot on it, I love gazing at it and letting my imagination run wild—just like in Kim Hae-Jun’s film “Castaway on the Moon.” In the movie, the protagonist, burdened by debt, tries to commit suicide by jumping into the Hangang River, only to wash up on Bamseom Island’s shore and have no other choice but to survive.
Bamseom Island wasn’t always uninhabited. During the Joseon era, it was home to shipbuilders. In the 1960s, the last of the residents departed the island as the government used its gravel and pebbles to develop Yeouido. Today, a small monument within the greenery reminds us that people once lived there.
The Hangang River and its islands blend history, nature, and modernity. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or looking for a perfect photo spot, these islands have something for everyone. So, grab your bike, pack a picnic, and discover the hidden gems of the Hangang River!