A City of Architectural Splendour

Esteemed French architect and urban planner Dominique Perrault has a long history with South Korea’s capital. Two decades ago, he was commissioned to design Ewha University’s campus, which was completed in 2008, and is still to this day regarded as one of Seoul’s pinnacle landmarks, blending built and natural environments harmoniously. Since then, he has championed the city’s innovative architectural approach that balances modernity with tradition and led this year’s Seoul Biennale of Architecture and Urbanism. During his recent visit in the days leading up to the annual event, he was reminded of just how much Seoul has progressed, not just in its architectural scope, but also in its sustainable initiatives.

Dominique Perrault

"I think that today the city is evolving to make more space for nature, pedestrian public spaces, and soft mobility," says Perrault. “The reclaiming of riverbanks, the creation of kilometres of bike roads, new public gardens, are all examples of this evolution towards a more sustainable city.” He feels urban planning and architectural frameworks contribute to building a city that breathes, that is less noisy and more pleasant for all its inhabitants. “The health crisis will certainly accelerate this development.” He finds Seoul to be a particularly dynamic city in terms of architecture, continually updating its skyline, which extends the recognition of Seoul internationally as a place of innovation.

DDP night view with bright dazzling city lights

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

Lush and green Ehwa Women's University Campus

Ewha Campus Complex designed by Dominique Perrault

When asked to name his favourite attraction, he cites the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) as a must-see venue. “The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, built by Zaha Hadid Architects, is, in my opinion, one of the icons of Seoul’s urban landscape. The metonymic landscape and its gigantic design fits perfectly into the city.” The urban landmark, with its neo-futuristic design, has become South Korea’s fashion hub and hugely popular tourist destination.
Another landmark that made a profound impression on Perrault is the Korean Furniture Museum. The Seoul Metropolitan Government was able to grant him a private tour, where he was able to take in every showcase at his own pace. “It was spectacular,” he notes. “We discovered stunning examples of traditional Korean architecture and the manner in which Seoul enhances its architectural heritage.”

Korean Furniture Museum exterior building Korean Furniture Museum interior traditional design

Korean Furniture Museum

Yet, Seoul’s modernistic might was decades in the making and only truly flourished in recent years. Throughout much of the construction of Ewha campus, Perrault was frequently traveling back and forth between Seoul and Paris and notes the significant changes that have taken place since then. “Compared to two decades ago, what I notice most is the changing of people’s attitude towards city development,” he says. “I feel that people have become more conscious about coexisting with things from the past rather than simply pursuing fancy new buildings in the city. They think more about how tradition and contemporary architecture go together.” This is particularly apparent with the growing number of rooftop gardens on buildings Perrault rarely saw roughly ten years ago.

Seun Sangga, or Sewoon Arcade, a modern archaeological relic comprised of residential and commercial buildings that stretches for half a mile in central Seoul also fascinates Perrault. “I appreciate the radical aspect of Seun Sangga,” he attests. Built in 1966 and designed by the modern architect Kim Swoo-geun, the progressive plan resulted in South Korea’s first modern building and first urban regeneration project. “Sewoon Plaza acted as a bridge connecting the two main venues of the Seoul Biennale – the Dongdaemun Design Plaza and Seoul Hall of Urbanism and Architecture.”

Before returning to his native France, Perrault had a chance to experience royal cuisine at one of Seoul’s most popular fine dining establishments, courtesy of the Deputy Mayor himself. “It was a great honour and truly memorable experience to have visited Jiwhaja — I really enjoyed Korea’s authentic traditional food, and now have a newfound appreciation for its flavours and presentation.”

Geumjungtang – Chicken abalone hotpot soup at Jihwaja, Korean Royal Court Cuisine restaurant

In a city of infinite adventure and countless attractions, narrowing down the list of recommended attractions for newcomers is no easy task. But if Perrault were to list his favourite four destinations in Seoul it would include the Korean Furniture Museum, Ewha University, Changdeokgung Palace’s Secret Garden, and 473 SongEun Art Space by the famed Swiss architect firm Herzog & De Meuron. Perrault's visits to Seoul have made lasting impressions and will likely see him returning on many more occasion in the future.

Dominique Perrault wishes to thank everyone involved, particularly Mr. Kyung-Ju Choi, Mr. Seung Hoy Kim, Dr-Ing. Byoung-Keun Kang, for taking the time to ensure his recent stay in Seoul was a truly memorable one, especially his visit to the Korean Furniture Museum. He is grateful for their hospitality and looks forward to his next trip to South Korea's capital.

Tags

#Geumjungtang #Architecture #KoreanFurnitureMuseum #EwhaCampusComplex #Seoul #Sustainability #DominiquePerrault #DDP #FrenchArchitect

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