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More than Seoul: The DMZ

Published Date : Jan 01, 2016 / Edited Date : Feb 13, 2019
More than Seoul: The DMZ

A six-kilometer stretch of land extends across the Korean peninsula. Known as the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), it’s an iconic reminder of the tragedy of war, the separation of a people, and one of the saddest legacies of the Cold War. Among the world’s most heavily militarized places, the DMZ’s uniqueness is why it’s also Korea’s most popular destination for foreign visitors. Where else can you peer into an eerily empty North Korean propaganda village, or feel the palpable tension as your feet straddle the actual border inside the Military Armistice Commission building? Most of the most popular DMZ attractions are located within 90 minutes of Seoul, and this tour will take you there!
Course Map

A military PoliceCourse Overview

This course will be somewhat different from our previous tours. Since it’s inconvenient or impossible to visit many of the best DMZ destinations by public transportation or private vehicle, this course will describe some of the most popular organized tours operated by local companies. Then, we’ll provide details on many of the best destinations in the “western front” of the DMZ, such as Panmunjeom or the Joint Security Area (JSA), the Dorasan and Odusan observatories, the Third Infiltration Tunnel, and more… After reading about the sites and tours, it’s up to you to decide which tour fits best!

After the tour buses return to Seoul, we’ll visit the War Memorial of Korea, whose extensive exhibits on the Korean War offer additional insight into the devastating civil conflict. Afterwards, we’ll conclude our tour with a delicious dinner in the Hannam-dong neighborhood!

So, there you go, a special course that enables you to pick what best fits your interests and schedule. Are you ready? Then…

Let's Get Started!

Before You go
Course Checklist...

Before we make our way to the DMZ, there are a few important things you should know about tour destinations and operators. The DMZ isn’t your typical tourist attraction, so being fully informed will help ensure the best travel experience.

Please consider the following:

#1 Sometimes tours are cancelled.
Military activity may require tour operators to cancel specific tour locations, or the tour altogether. Please note that such decisions are made by military personnel (not tour operators), and are done so with your safety in mind.

#2 Please obey photo rules
Of course, you’ll want to snap photos of your DMZ experience. However, once you enter the DMZ, your tour guide will most likely inform you when and where it’s permissible to take photographs. Should you take snapshots in prohibited areas, be prepared to yield your film, memory card or even your camera! Please note that cameras with a zoom capability of over 100 mm are prohibited.

#3 Some nationalities face restrictions
Please note that access to the Joint Security Area (JSA) within the DMZ is restricted to certain nationalities. Furthermore, even citizens from some approved countries may need to pre-submit their passport information several days or weeks ahead of time for clearance. Please check with the tour operator for details.

(Note: See the sidebar for details on restricted nations).

Specifically, Chinese and South Korean citizens who wish to visit the JSA must apply to receive permission. Chinese tourists typically must apply 10 days in advance, while South Koreans must undergo a background check, which can take two months. Please contact the tour provider for details.

#4 Dress with respect
Parts of the DMZ (especially the Joint Security Area) strictly enforces a dress code. Military policy requires all visitors to display a “neat and presentable appearance.” Generally, this means no ripped jeans, flip-flop sandals or clothing with profane or provocative text. Sports or athletic clothing (including gym shorts or track/stretch pants) are also prohibited, as are sleeveless shirts, tank tops and excessively baggy clothing. Please contact your tour provider for details.

#5 Consider the weather

The weather will impact your DMZ tour experience! This may seem obvious, but on an especially cloudy, foggy or rainy day, it may be difficult to see into North Korea at the observatories. There’s plenty else to see, but it’s just something to keep in mind.

#6 This isn’t Disneyland!
Finally, although the DMZ represents Korea’s most popular tourist destination, it’s not your typical attraction. The two Koreas remain technically at war. Especially inside the JSA, you’ll be just a few meters from armed North Korean soldiers. Any provocative action can literally put your life (and the lives of others) in danger. It’s critically important that you listen carefully to instructions from military personnel and tour operators.

The tours
The Tours!

Sightseeing busesWe’re almost ready to take off!

As mentioned previously, it can be inconvenient or even impossible to visit many of the best DMZ destinations on your own. Thankfully, several Seoul-based tour companies conduct great package tours to the best DMZ sights. Almost every tour ventures inside the Demilitarized Zone, while many also venture inside the Joint Security Area (JSA). Once again, however, please note that several nationalities - including South Koreans and Chinese - face restricted access to the JSA. Please inquire with the tour operator.)

As you choose your tour company, you’ll want to keep a few things in mind. Obviously, choose a tour that’s offered in your language! You’ll also want to pick a tour that fits your schedule – some depart quite early and return in the afternoon, while others depart a bit later and return in the evening. Take a close look at the options, and pick the best tour for you!

Disclaimer: Please note that these tour companies operate independently of the Seoul Tourism Organization (STO). As a result, we cannot take responsibility for their policies or procedures. Furthermore, please contact them directly to book your tour, or for additional information.
Fence 1
 Tour Operator  Languages  Time Cost Itinerary 
 International Service Culture Club



Depart at 8:50am from Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel.

Return to Seoul at 2:50pm.


(120,000won when combined with 3rd tunnel)

 Camp Bonifas -> JSA -> Lunch (included)
 Panmunjum Travel Center



Depart at 8:50am from Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel.

Return to Seoul at 14:50.


(130,000won when combined with 3rd tunnel)

 Odusan Unification Observatory ->
Unification Bridge -> Camp Bonifas -> JSA
 JoongAng Tour


Chinese, Japanese 

Depart at 9:30am from Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel.

Return to Seoul at 16:30.


(120,000won when combined with 3rd tunnel)

 Unification Bridge -> Camp Bonifas -> JSA -> Lunch -> Imjingak Park

 USO Tour

(operated by Koridoor)


Depart from Camp Kim at 9:30am.

Return at 17:30. 

$80USD ($40 for military personnel)   Camp Bonifas -> JSA -> DMZ Theater
& 3rd Infiltration Tunnel -> Dora Observatory ->
(not included)

English, Chinese,


Depart at 8am from Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel. Return to Seoul at 17:30.  77,000won

(120,000won when combined with 3rd tunnel)

 Imjingak Park -> Unification Bridge -> JSA


Fence 2



Downtown Seoul and Demilitarized Zone
Cruising Along Freedom Road!

It’s time to go!

The tour companies that offer DMZ tours may depart from different places in downtown Seoul, but all of them will drive north via the “Jayu” or Freedom Road. It’s a scenic trip along the north bank of the Hangang (River), until it connects with the Imjingak (River) and empties into the Yellow Sea.

Here’s a tip: For the best views of the river and to ensure you’ll be best positioned for a first glimpse of North Korea, be sure to sit on the bus’s left side. Although the journey will take somewhere between 60~90 minutes, chances are you won’t be bored. Most tour companies will make sure there’s a guide on board, who will review the tour itinerary, and provide interesting history about the Korean War. If you’re really lucky, this briefing will be conducted by someone who experienced the Korean War first-hand.

DMZ Destinations
Military Demarcation LineA Great Divide

Upon reaching the first stop on our tour, you may already be able to feel the tension of the Korean border.

The border that separates the Koreas is like none other. Unlike most wars, the Korean War never officially ended with the signing of a peace treaty. Instead, after a three-year war that killed over three million people on both sides, the civil war was merely put on “pause” by way of an Armistice agreement that divided the Korean peninsula roughly in half. That 250-kilometer long border is buffered on either side by a four-kilometer-wide area called the Demilitarized Zone or DMZ. Despite the name, it remains among the world’s most heavily militarized borders. It’s also been the site of ongoing conflicts that have taken the lives of hundreds of South Korean, American and North Korean soldiers.

DMZ 1The Sites:

What follows are descriptions of many of the most popular sights located on the “western front” of the DMZ. It’s also a common sequence of most tours, although there is some variation.

Site #1: Odusan Observatory

Although this observatory is technically located outside the DMZ, it offers one of the best views into North Korea and has been visited by over 10 million people since it was opened in 1992. The five-story tower is less than half a kilometer from the North on a bluff overlooking where the Hangang (River) and Imjingang (River) meet. Inside, the complex contains exhibits on everyday life in North Korea, and 20 telescopes point northwards, just in case you want to try and get a look for yourself!

DMZ 2Site #2: Camp Bonifas

For the lucky tourist who can enter the Joint Security Area (JSA), your first stop will probably be Camp Bonifas. The United Nations Command military post is located just 400 meters south of where the DMZ begins in the JSA, which is also known as Panmunjeom. Camp Bonifas’s motto is “In Front of Them All,” which gives you an idea of your proximity to the border! Named after the U.S. Army Captain Arthur G. Bonifas who was killed by North Korean soldiers in the 1986 “Axe Murder Incident,” this is where U.S. soldiers provide orientation tours. These tours typically include a short video explaining the history and purpose of the JSA.

DMZ 3Site #3: MAC Buildings

Probably the most exhilarating and genuinely nerve-wracking experience of any DMZ tour is if conditions allow you inside a Military Armistice Commission (MAC) building. Straddling the border inside the JSA this series of gray and sky blue buildings (gray-North Korea, blue-United Nations Command). This is where formal negotiations take place between North Korea and the United Nations Command Security Force, which represents the South and the U.S. If conditions permit, your tour group will be allowed inside the middle MAC building. Inside, the tension is palpable. Sunglass-wearing soldiers of the Republic of Korea stand in a silent, strained Taekwondo martial arts pose with gloved fists at the ready. Just outside are North Korean soldiers peering in. If you stand on the northern side of the long wooden table, you’ve technically stepped foot into one of the world’s most reclusive nations… if only for a moment!


Site #4: DMZ Theater and Museum

After the exhilarating experience of visiting the MAC building, it’s time to do some cave spelunking. Well, not really! But one of the scariest examples of North Korean plans to attack the South are a series of tunnels that were dug beneath the DMZ and into South Korean territory. As part of the Third Infiltration Tunnel complex, the DMZ Theater offers a glimpse into North Korea’s audacious attempts to invade the South. Typically a prerequisite to entering the tunnel, the seven-minute film provides a good primer on the Korean War. Connected to the theater is a well-done museum.

DMZ Theater and Museum

Third Infiltration TunnelSite #5: Third Infiltration Tunnel

After watching the video and viewing the museum, you’re ready to venture deep into a North Korean infiltration tunnel! To date, four have been discovered along the DMZ, although many expect there are more yet undiscovered. The Third Infiltration Tunnel was discovered in 1978 and it’s a stop made on many DMZ tours. At a length of 1.6 kilometers (435 meters of which were under the soil of the Republic of Korea!) it’s where tourists can trudge down a steep pathway some 265 meters underground. You’ll need to borrow a helmet and hunch your back, unless you take the tram (depending on the tour). Upon its discovery, North Korean troops painted the tunnel walls black as part of a bizarre explanation that they were simply mining coal! Note: photographs are prohibited inside the tunnel.

Site #6: Dorasan Observatory

Several tours conclude here. When you arrive, it’s impossible to miss that the building’s camouflage pattern. The Korean words “The best army under the sky” is also displayed prominently. Located near a rail station that aspires to connect into North Korea, the observatory contains a large auditorium with a wall of glass that faces North Korea. Inside, a guide will explain the DMZ via a model map located at the front of the room, and outside, there’s a large viewing platform where visitors can pay 500 won to peer via telescope into North Korea’s Gijeongdong propaganda village, the world’s tallest flagpole and the Gaeseong Joint Industrial Complex, one of the most important examples of inter-Korean cooperation.

Dorasan Observatory
Site #7: Lunch!

By now, chances are you’ve worked up an appetite, and most tour operators will fit a lunch break in after a visit to the Dorasan Observatory. The nearby cafeteria allows tour goers with the opportunity to eat a provided lunch, or bring your own. Keep in mind that some tours charge extra for the lunch. Located next door is a gift shop, just in case you want to pick up a special memento of your DMZ tour experience!

DMZ and War Memorial of Korea
War Memorial of Korea 1A War Memorial

If your tour returns to Seoul in the early- to mid afternoon, you’ll have sufficient time to visit one of Seoul’s best museums, the War Memorial of Korea. We visited the museum on a previous course, but this time we’re going to take a look at the Memorial’s extensive Korean War exhibits, which occupy almost the entire second floor.

The museum’s Korean War rooms detail the tumultuous time for military and civilians, alike. Exhibits show the chronology of the separate governments created in the South and North in the three years following liberation from Japan. Once war broke out, you can read the chilling words on the front pages of several international newspapers. A number of exhibits also provide highly-detailed descriptions of important battles, such as the Incheon Landing, which helped rescue South Korea from an aggressive Northern takeover. One of the most interesting aspects of the collection are copies of once top secret messages sent by U.S. military officials describing the tenuous condition of the South Korean army. Outside the facility are scores of black granite slabs with the names of fallen soldiers lined in gold leaf. It’s a stark reminder of just how many people gave their lives so that a prosperous Republic of Korea could exist today.

War Memorial of Korea 2

: Museum Hours: 09:00~18:00 (Admission until 17:00); Free admission to primary exhibits.

War Memorial of Korea and Hannam-dong
Hungry Yet?

After a long day in the field and in the museum, I think you’ll agree that it’s time to eat! Lucky for you, you won’t have to travel far, because central Seoul’s Yongsan District is well known for a large selection of excellent restaurants from a variety of culinary traditions. One popular neighborhood in particular is Hannam-dong! Located just off a main avenue, one entrance to Hannam-dong features several great restaurants, while father up the hill are a number of foreign embassies.

Actually, looking at the diverse array of restaurants located in the area, the different types of cuisine are almost a reminder of which nations came to South Korea’s aid in the Korean War.

Here are a few great neighborhood suggestions:

Banana Grill

Huge hamburgers made from
scratch at this cute place
featuring sky blue, polka-dotted blankets on every chair.

261-6 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu
Tel: 02-792-3088

Noodle in soup
La Cocotte European Bistro

This funky restaurant features
an extensive list of pastas, as
well as a few chicken and
beef dishes.

28-9 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu
Tel: 02-798-0052
Where to Eat in Hannam-dong

Gae Sung Kalguksu

If you’re looking for some hot
Korean handmade noodle soup,
this is your place!

30-4 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu
Tel: 02-749-2234
Seafood Pasta

Mama’s Deli

This cheerful place serves
healthy Korean cuisine,
without sacrificing flavor.

30-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu
Tel: 02-790-2468


This Spanish-themed
restaurant specializes in
grilled chicken and draft
pints of beer

261-6 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu
Tel: 02-793-8886

Just in case, you can also find a number of bakeries, cupcake shops and other confectionaries to satisfy your sweet tooth in Hannam-dong!
Lynn’s Cupcakes and Tyche’s Cookie
Lynn’s Cupcakes

32-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu
Tel: 02-792-0804

Tyche’s Cookie

32-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu
Tel: 02-790-8808


So, there you have it, a fairly comprehensive review of the Korean War – from the safety of a museum’s exhibits, to the exhilarating danger of the front line.

Thanks for coming along, and don’t forget to visit again for another future tour!


#JSA #North Korea #DMZ #DMZ Tour

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예약 전 안내사항
  • 예약은 관광일 기준 최소 1주일 전까지 가능합니다.
  • 덕수궁의 경우 복지카드를 지참한 관광객에 한하여 무료입장이 가능합니다.
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  • 희망하시는 날짜 및 코스에 활동가능한 해설사가 없는 경우 예약은 취소될 수 있습니다.
  • 예약확인을 위해 도보관광 사무국(02-6925-0777)에서 확인 연락이 진행됩니다.
    (최소 5일~한달 전)3회 이상 전화통화가 이뤄지지 않을 시 예약이 취소될 수 있습니다.
  • 해설 진행 시 발생하는 안전사고에 대해서 도보관광 사무국과 서울문화관광해설사는 책임을 지지 않습니다.
  • 미세먼지 비상저감조치 발령 및 기타 기상악화(폭염, 태풍, 폭우 등)로 인해 도보관광 운영이 어려운 경우 모든 예약은 일괄 취소됩니다. (관광일 전날 기준)
예약 전 안내사항
  • 예약은 관광일 기준 최소 1주일 전까지 가능합니다.
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    ※ 전동보장구(전동휠체어, 전동스쿠터 등) 사용자의 경우 보호자 1인당 보행약자 최대 4인까지 동반 가능
    희망하시는 날짜 및 코스에 활동가능한 해설사가 없는 경우 예약은 취소될 수 있습니다.
  • 예약확인을 위해 도보관광 사무국(02-6925-0777)에서 확인 연락이 진행됩니다.(최소 5일~한달 전)3회 이상 전화통화가 이뤄지지 않을 시 예약이 취소될 수 있습니다.
  • 해설 진행 시 발생하는 안전사고에 대해서 도보관광 사무국과 서울문화관광해설사는 책임을 지지 않습니다.
  • 미세먼지 비상저감조치 발령 및 기타 기상악화(폭염, 태풍, 폭우 등)로 인해 도보관광 운영이 어려운 경우 모든 예약은 일괄 취소됩니다. (관광일 전날 기준)
Read before Reservation
  • Reservations must be made at least three days prior to the tour date.
  • Group reservations up to 3people are being accepted on the line.
  • Additional reservations are?permitted for pre-existing reservations that do not exceed the limited number of three people per group and may be made one day prior to the tour date by 5 PM.
  • Reservations for the following month are available from the 15th of the current month.
  • Masks are required for participation in all tour programs.
  • Please refrain from participating in any tour programs should you be experiencing any symptoms, including fever, coughing, congestion, muscle pain, stuffy nose, and/or sore throat.
  • Reservations for tourists 14 years & under without an accompanying adult or guardian shall be canceled on site.
  • [As of one day prior to the tour date] All reservations shall be canceled in the event of emergency particulate matter reduction measures taken and/or inclement weather conditions, including excessive heat waves, typhoons, heavy rain, and more, that may impede Seoul Guided Walking Tour operations.
  • The Seoul Guided Walking Tour administration office and tour guide affiliates are not responsible for any accidents that happen to occur during the tour program.
Read before Reservation
  • Reservation shall be made at least 1 week before the tour day.
  • The course is for tourists with mobility problems (Senior, people with disability, stroller user).
  • You may not use the course without an assistant (or companion)
    ※ At least one assistant shall accompany a tourist with mobility problem
    ※ In case of electric assisting device users (electric wheelchair, electric scooter users), one assistant may accompany up to 4 tourists with mobility problem
  • Reservation may be canceled when a guide is unavailable on the desired date and course.
  • Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office (02-6925-0777) will contact you to confirm reservation.
    (At least 5 days~1 month before tour day) Reservation may be canceled when Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office cannot reach you for more than 3 times.
  • Seoul Guided Walking Tour Office and Seoul culture and tourism guide are not liable for the safety accidents during the Seoul Guided Walking Tour.
  • All reservations are canceled when Seoul Guided Walking Tour is unavailable due to Particulate Matter Reduction Measure or other weather conditions (heat wave, typhoon, heavy rain). (As of the date before the tour day)
  • 観光予定日を基準として最小3日前まで予約可能です。
  • 最大3名様までお電話やメールでご予約をお願いいたします。
  • 既に予約されたコースの中で、グループ別の定員を超えない予約に限り、観光予定日の1日前の17時まで追加での予約が可能です。
  • 翌月の予約は前月の15日から可能です。
  • 解説プログラム参加時は、必ずマスク着用をお願いします。
  • 発熱または呼吸器症状(熱、咳、痰、筋肉痛、鼻づまり、喉の痛み等)がある場合は、解説プログラムへのご参加はお控えください。
  • 保護者が同伴しない満14歳未満の観光客は、現場でキャンセルとなります。
  • PM2.5非常低減措置の発令およびその他の気象状況の悪化(猛暑、台風、豪雨等)により徒歩観光の運営が難しい場合は、すべての予約が一括キャンセルされます。(観光予定日の前日基準)
  • 解説が行われる際に発生した安全事故について、ソウル徒歩解説観光事務局とソウル文化観光解説士は責任を負いません。
  • 予約は観光日を基準として少なくとも1週間前まで可能です。
  • 本コースは、移動弱者(移動が不自由な高齢者、障害者、ベビーカー利用者など)のためのコースです。
  • 補助人(或いは同行人)を伴わない場合は利用できません。
  • ご希望の日付及びコースに活動可能な解説士がいない場合、予約はキャンセルされることがあります。
  • 予約を確認するため、徒歩観光事務局(02-6925-0777)で確認のための連絡が行われます。
  • 解説を進行する時に発生する安全事故に対し、徒歩観光事務局とソウル文化観光解説士は
  • PM 2.5(ピーエムにてんご)の非常低減措置発令及びその他の気象悪化(猛暑、台風、暴雨など)によって
  • 观光日基准最少3日前方可进行预约。
  • 最多可以预约3个人。
  • 在已登记的预约团体中,只接待不超过预约人数的团体,可在前一天17时前追加预约。
  • 下个月的预约可从前一月15日开始。
  • 参加徒步观光解说活动时必须佩戴口罩。
  • 如有发热或呼吸道症状(发烧、咳嗽、痰液、肌肉痛、鼻塞、咽喉痛等),请避免参与解说活动。
  • 无保护者随同的未满14岁儿童游客,会在现场取消解说活动。
  • 因发布微尘紧急低减措施及其他气象恶化(暴热、台风、暴雨等)无法运营徒步观光解说活动时,所有预约会批量取消。(观光前日基准)
  • 对于解说活动中发生的安全事故,首尔徒步解说旅游事务局和首尔文化观光解说社不予负责。
  • 观光日基准最少1日前方可进行预约。
  • 本线路是为了行动不便者(行动不便的高龄者、残疾人、婴儿车利用者等)的路线。
  • 无辅助人员(或同行人)伴随时,不可利用。
    ※ 步行不便者1名至少需要1名以上的辅助人员陪同。
    ※ 电动辅助器具(电动轮椅、电动独轮车等)使用者时,每一位辅助人员最多可陪同 4名步行不便者。
  • 希望观光的日期及线路上无解说员时,预约有可能被取消。
  • 为了确认预约,徒步观光事务局(02-6925-0777)会致电进行确认。
    (最少5日~一个月前) 3次以上无法连接时,预约将被取消。
  • 进行解说时,对于有可能发生的安全事故,徒步观光事务局和首尔文化观光解说员概不负责。
  • 因发布微尘紧急低减措施及其他气象恶化(暴热、台风、暴雨等),无法运营 徒步观光时,所有预约会批量取消。
  • 最晚請於預約日期3天前完成預約。
  • 最多可以预约3个人。
  • 已完成預約的團體若人數超過限制,可於前一天下午5點前追加預約。
  • 每月15日將開放下個月的預約。
  • 參與解說觀光時請務必佩戴口罩。
  • 若有發燒或呼吸道症狀(發燒、咳嗽、咳痰、肌肉酸痛、鼻塞、喉嚨痛),請避免參與本活動。
  • 未有保護者同行的未滿14歲兒童遊客,會在現場取消參與資格。
  • 因發布微塵緊急降低措施及其他天氣惡化(暴熱、台風、豪雨等),無法進行徒步觀光時,所有預約將取消。(預約日期前日基準)
  • 進行解說時,對於有可能發生的安全事故,首爾徒步解說觀光事務局和首爾文化觀光解說員概不負責。
  • 觀光日基準最少1日前方可進行預約。
  • 本線路是為了行動不便者(行動不便的高齡者、殘疾人、嬰兒車利用者等)的路線。
  • 無輔助人員(或同行人)伴隨時,不可利用。
    ※ 步行不便者1名至少需要1名以上的輔助人員陪同。
    ※ 電動輔助器具(電動輪椅、電動獨輪車等)使用者時,每壹位輔助人員最多可陪同 4名步行不便者。
  • 希望觀光的日期及線路上無解說員時,預約有可能被取消。
  • 為了確認預約,徒步觀光事務局(02-6925-0777)會致電進行確認。
    (最少5日~壹個月前) 3次以上無法連接時,預約將被取消。
  • 進行解說時,對於有可能發生的安全事故,徒步觀光事務局和首爾文化觀光 解說員概不負責。
  • 因發布微塵緊急低減措施及其他氣象惡化(暴熱、臺風、暴雨等),無法運營 徒步觀光時,所有預約會批量取消。 (觀光前日基準)