Naengmyeon (냉면) literally translates to “cold noodles” and is a popular dish to eat in the summer. Naengmyeon is made of long, thin hand-made noodles, typically made from the flour and starch of various ingredients such as memil (메밀; buckwheat), potatoes, sweet potatoes or chik (칡; kudzu). Varieties with ingredients such as seaweed and green tea are also available. In the past, the long noodles were not cut before being consumed because they symbolized longevity and good health, but nowadays servers at restaurants usually ask diners want their noodles cut prior to eating and use food scissors to cut the noodles.

The two main varieties of naengmyeon are mul naengmyeon (물냉면) and bibim naengmyeon (비빔냉면). The former is served with noodles in a tangy iced broth made from beef, chicken or dongchimi (동치미; radish kimchi). Spicy mustard sauce and vinegar are often added before consumption. The latter is served with a spicy dressing made primarily from gochujang (고추장; red chili pepper paste) and eaten all mixed together. Usually a bowl of the soup broth used in mul naengmyeon or plain broth from the boiled noodles themselves is often served on the side. Both versions come with julienned cucumbers, slices of Korean pear, and either a boiled egg or slices of cold boiled beef added on top.

Other popular varieties of naengmyeon include yeolmu naengmyeon (열무냉면), a type of mul naengmyeon that is served with yeolmu kimchi (열무김치; 열무 meaning “young radish”) and hoe naengmyeon (회냉면), a type of bibim naengmyeon served with marinated hoe (회; raw fish), typically skate.

 

According to the Dongguksesigi (동국세시기), an ancient Korean text that dates back to 1829, Koreans have been enjoying naengmyeon since the Joseon Dynasty. Nowadays naengmyeon is considered to be a meal to be eaten in the summer, but back then it was eaten in the winter! It may sound a bit insane, but you know the ol' saying "fight fire with fire"? Well back then when the winters were deathly cold, people fought the cold with cold. It's basically the same idea as drinking hot tea in the summer.

 

 

The Original Mul Naengmyeon:
Pyeongyang Naengmyeon (평양냉면)

Pyeongyang Naengmyeon is a type of mul naengmyeon made with noodles made from buckwheat, typically served in beef broth. Because the noodles are made mostly from buckwheat, they have a less chewy texture and rarely need to be cut before eating.

*Pyeongyang is North Korea's capital city.


The Original Bibim Naengmyeon:
Hamheung Naengmyeon (함흥냉면)

Hamheung Naengmyeon is a type of bibim naengmyeon, or more specifically, a type of hoe naengmyeon in which marinated hongeo hoe (홍어회; raw skate) is added. The noodles are usually made from potato or sweet potato starch, so the noodles are very chewy in texture compared to those of Pyeongyang Naengmyeon.

*Hamheung is a city north of North Korea's capital city.



Although there are several famous naengmyeon restaurants scattered throughout Seoul, there's one place that is home to several great ones all conveniently located in one place. For the best Hamheung Naengmyeon in town, look no further than Hamheung Naengmyeon Alley in Ojang-dong!

 

Left) Heungnam Jip (흥남집) est. 1952 Middle) Ojang-dong Hamheung Naengmyeon (오장동 함흥냉면) est. 1953 Right) Sinchangmyeonok (신창면옥) est. 1980

The Origin of Hamheung Naengmyeon

Hamheung Naengmyeon was derived from Hamheung Guksu (함흥국수; Hamheung Noodles), a dish that was commonly eaten in the Hamgyŏng-do countryside. Hamgyŏng (함경도; Hamgyŏng-do) was one of the Eight Provinces of Korea during the Joseon Dynasty, located in the northeast of Korea (currently North Korea). It's provincial capital was Hamhŭng (Hamheung), hence where the name of the dish came from.

The people of Hamgyŏng-do enjoyed eating Hamheung Guksu for many years, a dish which consisted of noodles made from potato starch, gochujang and hongeo hoe. But due to the commotion of the Korean War (June 25, 1950 – armistice signed July 27, 1953), many people were displaced from their homes, resulting in some people from the northern part of Korea finding themselves having to live in the southern part of Korea once the country was divided into two. With the arrival of the Hamgyŏng-do people came the arrival of Hamheung Guksu. However at this point in time potato starch was no longer easy to come by and so sweet potato starch was used instead to make the noodles, and thus Hamheung Naengmyeon was born.

The first Hamheung Naengmyeon restaurant to open in this food alley was Heungnam Jip in 1952. Then a year later came Ojang-dong Hamheung Naengmyeon, and last but not least came Sinchangmyeonok in 1980. All three restaurants are equally popular, each having a group loyal customers that frequent their restaurants as often as they can. Among these loyal customers you'll find old grandpas and grandmas who were born in North Korea that come to this alley looking for food that remind them of home.

Due to naengmyeon's popularity in the summer, it's not uncommon to see lines of people out the door of every naengmyeon restaurant in town. Once you finally manage to get a table, the first thing you'll be served with is a kettle of steamy hot meat broth. This is meant to be drunk while waiting for the main dish to arrive. It's also good to drink while you're eating hamheung naengmyeon because it helps to neutralize the spiciness!

Although mul naengmyeon is offered on the menu, be sure to order hamheung naengmyeon if you're at a hamheung naengmyeon specialty restaurant! Once the food arrives, it's customary to cut the noodles with a pair of kitchen scissors. Of course, you can skip this step, but it makes eating the long, chewy noodles a lot easier!





How to Eat Naengmyeon

Left) Chilled noodles, spicy sauce and a cup of steamy hot meat broth on the side make the hamheung naengmyeon experience a multi-layered feast for the senses! Right) For maximum flavor, add a bit of vinegar, spicy mustard sauce and sugar and mix it all in!

After you've cut the noodles, it's time to mix it all together! Add some vinegar, spicy mustard sauce, sugar and some sesame oil to taste then mix it all up! The spiciness of the sauce, the sourness of the vinegar, the intense heat of the spicy mustard, and the sweetness of the sugar all together in one meal makes for a multi-layered feast for the senses!


 

Suyuk

Every naengmyeon speciality restaurant will also have suyuk (수육; boiled beef/pork) on the menu. Boiled soft and cut very thin, suyuk is a very healthy way to eat protein.

How Bibim Naengmyeon is Made

 

In order to make naengmyeon noodles delicately thin, they are made by putting the dough through a noodle press.

 

Then the noodles are rinsed in ice cold water and quickly put into a serving bowl.

 

Left) The spicy sauce is then poured on top and hongeo hoe (홍어회; raw skate) is added on top as a garnish. Right) The hongeo hoe is marinated in vinegar and ganjang (Korean soy sauce) for a day before being seasoned with gochujang (red chili pepper paste), sesame oil, green onions and garlic.

 

How to Get There

Take subway line 2 or 5 to Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station and go out of exit 6. Walk for about 400 meters and you should see Hamheung Naengmyeon Alley.

 

 

 

General Info	A. Sinchang Myeonok (신창면옥) 02-2273-4889 (Closed on the second and fourth Monday of the month) B. Ojang-dong Hamheung Naengmyeon (오장동 함흥냉면) 02-2267-9500 (Closed on the first and third Tuesday of the month) C. Ojang-dong Heungnamjip (오장동 흥남집) 02-2266-0735 (Closed on the second and fourth Wednesday of the month)
Prices	8,000 won
Hours	11 a.m. - 9 p.m.

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Seoul's First Pyeongyang Naengmyeon Restaurants

 

 

Wooraeok (우래옥)	Euljimyeonok (을지면옥)	Nampomyeonok (남포면옥)	Gangseomyeonok(강서면옥)