Seochon

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Walk Along Seochon’s Old Alleys

Published Date : Mar 01, 2019 / Edited Date : Aug 06, 2024

Walk along Seochon and find the traces of artists

Seochon is a village where great artists such as Gyeomjae Jeongseon and Chusa Junghee Kim of of Joseon Dynasty once lived. Also, writers such as Yun Dong-ju and Noh Cheon-myeong and painters such as Park No-su, and Yi Sang-beom also lived in Seochon. Walk along the old alleys of Seochon and follow the traces from Joseon Dynasty, Japanese colonial period, and the present time while finding the traces of numerous artists that lived in the village.

Walking Tour Details

Route: Subway Line 3, Gyeongbokgung Station Exit 3; Tongui-dong Pine Tree Sites; Sangchonjae Hanok House; Ogin-dong Yun Family’s House; Suseongdong Valley; Yun Dong-ju’s Boarding House; Park No-soo Art Museum; Yi Sang-beom’s House; Noh Cheon-myeong’s House; I Sang’s House; Geumcheongyo Market

Length of tour: 3 hours

Meeting Place: Subway Line 3, Gyeongbokgung Station Exit 3

(Seoul Guided Walking Tour)
(with a cultural tourism commentator)
(Seochon Hanok Village)
Hello
Thank you for requesting a Seoul Guided Walking Tour for Seochon
I'm Ahn Kyeong-sil,
Seoul's cultural tourism commentator of Seochon
Nice to meet you
This is Ezra, and she'll be taking a tour of Seochon with me today
Hello
I'm Ezra, and I came from Turkey to study here 10 months ago
Nice to meet you
Nice to meet you too, Ezra
The place we are at, Seochon,
is a village between Gyeongbokgung Palace and Inwangsan Mountain
If you walk along this big road
and step into the alley,
it's a famous place where you can feel the old vibes of the village
Do you already know about Seochon?
From friends around me,
I usually heard a lot about Bukchon Hanok Village
But honestly, I don't really know about Seochon
Alright then, I'll first explain about the name "Seochon"
Seochon means "The village west of Gyeongbokgung Palace"
If you walk along this big road
and step into the alley, there are
many places where you can feel
the art, literature, and history
from Joseon Dynasty to today
Then shall we head to the Pine Tree Sites, the first course?
(Pine Tree Sites)
Ma'am, the trees are all chopped down here
Yes, it's sad seeing them all chopped down
Tongui-dong pine trees that were over 300 years old
were unfortunately swept clean due to the summer typhoon
of July in 1990
That's why they withered to death like this
It's sad
So, putting that sadness behind, we collected seeds from those fallen trees
With those seeds, we planted it in four areas
Right now, out of the 4 trees we planted, 3 of them are alive
It's still growing well today
By the look of the stump, you can imagine the gigantic size of the tree, right?
- Yes, you're right
- This tree was very big
It was 16m tall with a 5m circumference
But unfortunately, we only have the stump now
It's showing the left remains of the pine trees
There's another thing about this alley
I told you it has the history of Joseon Dynasty and now, right?
A part of this pine tree site
in Seochon was the residence of royal families during Joseon Dynasty
Joseon's 21st king, Yeongjo
lived in Changuigung Palace until he rose to the throne, and that place is here
Changuigung Palace was here until 1907
and it was demolished in 1908
2 years later in 1910,
(*Made by Japan to take Joseon's land and resources)
*Oriental Development Company's employee residence
was built in this place
But after independence, the residence was demolished
and today, it has changed like this
Ezra, shall we leave this Pine Tree Site
and head to the location called "Sangchonjae"?
(Sangchonjae)
If you walk along the Tongin Market, which is near
Sejong Village Food Street,
you arrive at Sangchonjae, the place we are standing in right now
But ma'am, what does Sangchonjae mean?
"Sangchon" means "The town east of Inwangsan Mountain"
It means "Uptown"
and it's the old name of Seochon
Sangchonjae's old deserted Hanok went under
restoration for 1 year
and in June of 2017, it was reborn as
a culture space where you can experience
Korea's traditional Hanok and traditional culture,
as well as various related programs
A lot of programs are being held in here
So Ezra, you should come here someday
and experience Korea's traditional culture
I can't believe there is a place to experience Korea's traditional culture in Seochon
I think it'll be fun
Alright, shall we head to the next location?
(Yun Deok-yeong’s House)
This is Byuksusanjang(Yun Deok-yeong’s House)
Byuksusanjang has a very deep relation with one person
Ezra, have you ever heard about the person "Yun Deok-yeong"?
I'm not sure. Who is he?
Yun Deok-yeong is the uncle of Empress Sunjeonghyo Yun
who is the queen of the Korean Empire's King Sunjong
As a reward for accomplishing Japan's annexation of Korea,
(*the rank or title of a viscount)
he receives Japan's *viscounty and royal bounty
With the royal bounty he got from selling one's country,
he bought a huge plot of land in Ogin-dong
and built Byuksusanjang, which has a French-style architecture
So you're saying this place was a French-style building back then?
Yes
But I can't believe there's just two pillars left of it
Yes, that's right
Byuksusanjang's ironwork, decoration, tiles, etc. were
built using France·Germany's expensive building materials
But Yun Deok-yeong couldn't live in Byuksusanjang
It was used as a sanctuary for Red Swastika Society, a religious group
Oh, I see
It's a little disappointing that we can't see the fanciness of Byuksusanjang back then
Yes, you're right
Yun Deok-yeong's House later was used as a hospital and officer's dorm
And in 1973, it was demolished, so now all there's left are these 2 pillars
as a remains of those times
Shall we head to the next location?
(Ogin-dong Yun Family’s House)
This is Yun Family’s House that is on the way of Suseongdong Valley
Yun Family's House was built by
pro-Japanese collaborator Yun Deok-yeong
Is it related to the person you mentioned earlier?
Yes, in 47-133 of Ogin-dong,
this Hanok was built in 1910
and it was called the Yun Deok-yeong "Sosiljip"
In 1998, Namsangol Hanok Village was created
and they tried to move Yun Family’s House
But the frame of this building was too damanged
so they couldn't move it. And it has stayed here ever since
Right now in Namsangol Hanok Village,
there's a new replica of Ogin-dong Yun Family’s House
that looks identical to the original
Inside Yun Family's House, the Anchae and Sarangchae
is in a square shape
(*A type of wood architecture)
The top of the pillar is in an *Ikkong style
(with wood that is sharp like a bird's wing)
Back then, it was a rare style to be used,
and it showed the utmost elite class Hanok
So now, Yun Family's House
is replicated in Namsangol Hanok Village
So I recommend you to check that place out later on
Shall we head to the next location?
(Suseongdong Valley)
Ma'am, the scenery is amazing here
The sound of water brings peace to my mind
I didn't even know there was a valley like this in Seoul. It's cool
Yes, since this is a valley, a lot of people gather here in summer
- Should I tell you a story about this valley?
- Yes
It got its name because the sound of water flowing down
from Inwangsan Mountain is famous
Inwangsan Mountain's Suseongdong Valley was where Prince Hyoryeong
and Prince Anpyeong's old house was located in Joseon Dynasty
The "Dong" in Suseongdong meant "valley" back then
In which has writings about Seoul 200 years ago, it says,
"Located at the foot of Inwangsan Mountain,
the valley is quiet and deep
The stream and rocks are outstanding,
and it's great to view as you play in summer"
The scenery here is that outstanding
Ezra, do you know what this drawing is about?
What drawing is it?
I think it's a drawing of things around here. Is that right?
Yes, that's right
This drawing was drawn during King Yeongjo's reign
(*A scholar painter in Joseon Dynasty)
in 1751 by *Jeongseon Gyeomjae at the south foot of Inwangsan Mountain
drew Bugaksan Mountain's skirt
He drew 8 areas of Jangdong
on a canvas
and this drawing is called "Suseongdong"
Jeongseon Gyeomjae is one of the representative painters of Joseon Dynasty
who started the trend of real landscape painting
Shall we head to the next location?
(Yi Sang-beom’s House)
Ma'am, this looks like a place that people really live in
I think it's a great example of Hanok
- Yes, you're right. It's pretty, isn't it?
- It is
Yes, painter Cheongseon Yi Sang-beom
lived here for 43 years, starting from 1929
to 1972 until his death
Painter Yi Sang-beom continued the Korean tradition of real landscape painting,
passed down from Jeongseon Gyeomjae,
and used meok to paint
He used a painting tactic called "Cheongjeon"
and painted the nature of Korea
Seochon is really a village of art
By looking at all these famous places
along with your commentary,
I think I'm able to feel the charm of Seochon even more
Yes, that's right
Starting from Yi Sang-beom's House,
writer I Sang’s House, and Park No-soo Art Museum,
Seochon is the perfect place to experience modern art of Korea
If you head inside, you'll be able to see paintings
of painter Cheongjeon Yi Sang-beom,
drawn using the Cheongjeon tactic
I hope you can take a look at them later on
Shall we head to the next location?
(I Sang's House)
Ma'am, this place is very pretty
What kind of place is this?
This is where the writer "I Sang" lived
I Sang, who was a poet and writer,
was born here in Sajik-dong in 1910
Unfortunately, he died young at the age of 27
The place we are standing in right now
is where he was brought in
at the age of 3 via adoption to his uncle's house
and stayed for 20 years until he was 23 years old
It looks pretty, doesn't it?
If you look up at the ceiling,
(*A building material that is stuck)
it used Korea's traditional house's *Seokkarae
(in between the beams)
and this space was renovated into
(so that it's parpendicular)
a modern gallery
So he was labeled as a genius and clown,
living most of his life in here,
and this place is used as a culture space
to show his ambitious spirit for art
As I commented about the alleys of Seochon with you,
it's now time for us to wrap up
How was the commentary today?
It was so good
I honestly didn't know much about Seochon
I think I had more fun because
I was with you today
I had fun being with you too, Ezra
The Seochon course that you visited today
doesn't have a designated path
You can go where your heart takes you
and find the various charms of these alleys
I think that is the charm of this place
I think the tour around these alleys
with a commentator like me
to learn about the history, culture, and tradition
is also a charm of Seochon
Yes, I think you're right
I also think Seochon is very pretty
and I want to visit the places
I wasn't able to visit today some other time
Right
Seoul has various courses other than
the Seoul Guided Walking Tour of Seochon
that I did for you today, Ezra
(Visit dobo.visitseoul.net)
If you search Seoul Guided Walking Tour online,
(for more info)
you can read explanations about other courses and directions on making reservations
Seoul's cultural tourism commentators are waiting for you
to explain the history hidden in various parts of Seoul,
so please visit us frequently
I'm Seoul's cultural tourism commentator,
Ahn Kyeong-sil, in charge of Seochon Hanok Village's tour
Thank you
(Seoul Guided Walking Tour)
(with a cultural tourism commentator)
(Seochon Hanok Village)

Course Tip: Experience programs are not included in the walking tour. Participation in experience programs must be done individually once the tour is over.

Make a Reservation

Main Tourist Attractions in Course

Tongui-dong Pine Tree Site

Tongui-dong Pine Tree is recorded as the biggest and beautiful pine tree with height of 16m and girth of 5m. Although it was designated as a natural monument in 1962, the tree fell down due to the heavy rain on July 1997 and only the lower part remains until now.
Sangchonjae Hanok House

Sangchonjae Hanok House is a cultural space for traditional Hanok and it opened on July 2017 at Jongno-gu. This place was made by purchasing a deserted house owned by Korean National Police Agency and recovering the house over a year. Sangchonjae Hanok House is made based on traditional Hanok style from the late 19th century and it is composed of main building, sarangchae(guesthouse), servant’s house, and outhouse. Also, the house is made based on the house of middle class in Joseon Dynasty.
Ogin-dong Yun Family’s House

Ogin-dong Yun Family’s House was built in 1919 and a house in Namsangol Hanol Village was made by copying Yun Family’s house. The overall shape of the house is □ with ㄷ-shaped main building, floored room (sarangchae), and main entrance. As Ogin-dong Yun Family’s House was the house of the upper class family at that time, the house’s pillar on the front side of the main building is applied with Ikkong style which is very rare for a general private house.
Suseong-dong Valley

Suseong-dong Valley was named Suseong-dong for noisy water sound from the valley in Joseon Dynasty. The valley was loved by numerous poets and painters for its excellent scenery. Gyeomjae Jeongseon painted Suseong-dong Valley with a stone bridge named Giringyo Bridge in the Book on Eight Scenic Views of Jangdong. In 2011, Suseong-dong Valley was recovered after tearing down Ogin Sibeon Apartment.
Yun Dong-ju’s Boarding House

Nusang-dong 9 beonji, Jongno-gu is the place where a novelist named Kim Song’s house existed and Yun Dong-ju stayed at the house for about 5 months from May 1941 to September 1941 while he was attending Chosen Christian College. The hanok does not exist anymore and 3-storied multiplex housing is built instead. It is said that Yun wrote 10 poems including ‘Cross’, ‘Beginning of the Morning’, and ‘Sleepless Night’ in this house.
Park No-soo Art Museum

Park No-soo Art Museum was originally a house built by Yun Deok-yeong on the southern side of Byuksusanjang for his daughter and son-in-law. The house was a two-story brick house designed by modern architect named Park Gil-ryong in 1930. The house had a unique form combining Japanese and Chinese styles on Korean and western-style structure. The house was owned by a painter Park No-soo since 1972. Park donated the house and 994 art works and stones to Jongno-gu in 2011. Then, Jongno-gu opened Seoul Treasure No.1 as Park No-soo Art Museum on September 2013.
Yi Sang-beom’s House

This house was the place where a painter Yi Sang-beom (1897~1972) lived for 43 years from 1929 to 1972 until he passed away. The house is a typical urban Hanok composed of ㄱ-shape main building and ㅡ-shape servant’s house. Cheongseon Hwasuk beside the house was newly built in 1938 made for artworks and training disciples. Yi Sang-beom’s House was designated as Registered Cultural Properties No.171 in 2005.
I Sang’s House

This house was purchased by The National Trust for Cultural Heritage in 2009 and opened as a cultural space. I sang who is famous for his piece, got adopted by his uncle and lived in the house for 20 years until the age of 23.