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Lose yourself in the hidden gardens and rich history of a hidden gem
Walking Course: Choi Sunu House->Seonjamdan Shrine->Gansong Museum of Art->Seongbuk Museum of Art->Suyeon Sanbang->Simujang->Bukjeong Village->Seoul Fortress Wall->Gilsangsa->Samcheonggak
Nestled away in the hills just north of Seoul’s old city wall, the charming Seongbuk-dong neighborhood is one of Seoul’s best kept secrets. With lovely gardens, historic homes and a rich cultural heritage, the district is an oasis of tranquility in the very heart of the city. In May, when the spring blossoms erupt and the hillsides transform in a magical tapestry of color, the neighborhood makes the perfect weekend getaway, a place to unplug and walk amidst the hues, sounds and scents of spring.
Strolling amidst history
Most visitors begin their exploration of Seongbuk-dong with a visit to the Choi Sunu House, an early 20th century hanok home hidden in an alleyway just off Seongbuk-dong’s main street. Its beautiful gardens of flowering trees, craggy pines and well-placed masonry alone justify the trip. The halls contain a few displays of items once belonging to the former owner of the home, late art historian and National Museum of Korea director Choi Sunu (1916—1984). The house is now operated by the National Trust of Korea, a civic organization dedicated to historical preservation. Entry (10:00—16:00) is free, but the home is closed on Sundays. It is also closed from December to March.
On the other side of the main street from the Choi Sunu House is the site of the Seonjamdan, a Joseon Dynasty shrine where annual rites were held in honor of Leizu, the goddess of silkworms and, according to legend, the founder of sericulture. A red, wooden ceremonial gate marks the entrance to shrine site, while a raised stone altar marks the spot where the rites were held. The path leading from the gate to the altar is lined by about 50 fantastically gnarled mulberry trees. A short walk along the main road from the Seonjamdan Shrine site brings you to the entrance of the Gansong Museum of Art, one of the world’s finest repositories of Korean traditional art. Korea’s first private art museum, it was founded in 1938 by art collector Jeon Hyeong-pil, who spent much of his private wealth to prevent foreign art collectors from pillaging Korea’s artistic treasures. The museum usually holds exhibits twice a year, in May and October, but it is currently undergoing a major renovation. Its treasures, meanwhile, are on display at the newly opened Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
Seonjamdan Shrine
Teahouses, patriots and fortress walls
Continuing along the main road will bring you to the landmark Seongbuk Museum of Art, where on the first floor you’ll also find the Seongbuk Global Village Center. Hidden in a clump of trees next door, however, is the traditional teahouse Suyeon Sanbang. This exquisite turn-of-the-20th-century hanok house was the home of Yi Tae-jun (1904—1970?), one of Korea’s first modern novelists. The house, designed by Yi himself, has been perfectly preserved by his descendants. It you’re lucky, you might get a seat in the house’s elevated wing, with views of the courtyard garden. It can get quite busy on a weekend, but on a quiet weekday, there may be no finer place in the land to enjoy a cup of tea.
Keep heading up the main road, and on the left side you’ll spot a hillside path (with steps) leading to the Simujang, the home of Buddhist monk, poet and independence activist Han Yong-un (1879—1944). Han moved to this secluded spot not long after getting out of Seodaemun Prison, where he did a three year stint for his leading role in the March 1 Independence Movement of 1919. It’s a simple hanok house, but one shaded by a giant gnarled pine at the entrance. Unlike most Korean hanok, which face south, this one was built facing north so that Han would not have to face the hated Japanese Government-General Building, which was located to the south in Gwanghwamun.
The trail to the Simujang continues up past the house to the crest of the hill, which is topped by Seoul’s old fortress walls. Along the way, the path will take you through Bukjeong Village, a hillside community of humble homes that’s something of a throwback to the Seoul of decades past. One of the empty homes has been transformed into a local art museum currently displaying old photos taken in the community. If you continue to the fortress wall, you’ll meet up with the Seoul Fortress Wall Trail, an 18.7km hiking trail that takes you along the entirety of the old city wall. The section overlooking Seongbuk-dong offers some fantastic views over the neighborhood and is well worth the diversion.
Hidden gardens on the hillside
EAT>Seongbuk-dong does not lack for things to eat and drink. As you walk about, you’ll pass plenty of eateries and cafes, some more upscale than others. The neighborhood is particularly known for its donkkasseu (Japanese : tonkatsu), Japanese-style pork cutlets that are breaded and fried. This writer is a fan of Geumwang Donkkaseu (T. 02-763-9366), near Suyeon Sanbang. Another local specialty is the gisa sikdang (“driver restaurants”), which serve generous portions of Korean pork bulgogi and side dishes at very reasonably prices. These places originally targeted solo diners, in particular, taxi drivers. A good one to try is Ssangdari Gisa Sikdang (T. 02 743-0325).
GO>Exit 6 of Hansung University Station (Line 4).
