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Itaewon is popularly known for its exotic and trendy atmosphere within Seoul, not to mention the fun part of discovering different oraegages (lit. "100-year stores"), or businesses that have been passed down for generations and designated as such by the Seoul government. These unique shops hidden around the corners of Itaewon that have been preserving Korean tradition and craftmanship, which captured the interest of non-Koreans and soldiers stationed at the once nearby U.S. Army base. Explore the area to find some oraegages that exudes the “traditional hip” spirit recently cultivated by millennials and Gen Z who believe the most traditional is the most fashionable.

Itaewon Books,

the Oldest Bookstore for Secondhand Foreign Books in Seoul #Since1973

Open since 1973, Itaewon's Foreign Bookstore is a secondhand foreign bookstore that has been in business for nearly 50 years. As if proving their motto, We Buy, Sell and Trade All Kinds of Books, which is written on the awning just above the door, the bookstore has almost 100,000 books in a small space of just about 56 m².

Foreign Bookstore first started in the 1960s when the original owner, Choi Giung, collected books and magazines discarded at the American Army base to be sold. The books collected from the American Army bases all across the country were sold in Myeongdong and Jongno areas at first, and then he finally opened a secondhand bookstore in 1973 in Itaewon, which has been in operation to this day.

An array of books is arranged in differently shaped and sized bookshelves in the store. The bookshelves of varying sizes that perfectly fit the books all have been made by the founder, Choi Giung. Not only the bookshelves lined along the walls of the bookstore, but also the double-sliding bookshelves have gone through the hands of the shop owner.

Foreign residents in Korea, or anyone studying foreign languages, will find this particular bookstore appealing. There is also a growing number of people looking for a collection of old books for decoration. Experience the extraordinary atmosphere of this bookstore created over many years through boundless stories of people from all over the world.

• ○Address: 1F, 208, Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

• ○Hours: Daily 11:00 – 19:30 KST

• ○Instagram: @itaewon_books

Hanshin Onggi,

a Traditional Pottery Story Established in Haebangchon #Since1967

Hanshin Onggi is located on the first floor of a red brick building that appears as you walk along the wall of the U.S. Army base near the entrance of the Haebangchon area. Large earthenware pots are neatly lined up against a wall by Shin Yeongeun, its 88-year-old founder, for simply displaying the products, but they have become a special photo spot for younger crowds.

Walking along the rows of earthenware pots leads to the actual shop where Shin has been selling earthenware pots to the U.S. soldiers since he was young with the little English he spoke. From years of experience, Shin now sells traditional Korean ceramics made in Icheon to foreign visitors thanks to his improved skill with English. Some of the pottery sold at this shop are made by the masters of onggi, the Korean term for earthenware, a type of pottery.

In the past, some soldiers used to pack their belongings in earthenware pots sold at Hanshin Onggi to be shipped to the U.S. if they were short of boxes. Even after the army base has been relocated to the city of Pyeongtaek, located south of Seoul, people from the army base still visit the Haebangchon area looking for earthenware pots of Hanshin Onggi. In addition to earthenware pots of various sizes, a variety of products ranging from small pieces of pottery for carrying coins to plates and bowls usually seen in Korean fine dining restaurants, are also available at the shop.

• ○Address: 7, Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

• ○Hours: Daily 11:00 – 18:00 KST

Daeseong Mounter,

Resembling a Folk Painting Museum #Since1971

Daeseong Mounter is one of oraegages in Itaewon that has been in operation for nearly 60 years over two generations. Lee Sangeun, the son of founder, Lee Myeongun, took over the shop and currently manages the operation. The shop was particularly successful during the 1980s, having almost 10 employees and a factory that measures around 230 m². The shop was frequently visited by U.S. soldiers and U.S. Embassy staff. Daeseong Mounter enjoyed a continued boom even into the 1990s as they earned U.S. dollars from exports to the U.S.

Even the shop has gone down in size nowadays, there are still regular visitors thanks to numerous traditional artwork collected by Myeongun himself since long ago. Visitors will find some rare scrolls of folk paintings, genre paintings, and portraits that are difficult to find elsewhere. Some artwork over 100 years old still remain at the shop since he cherished them and did not wish to sell them for profit.

Most visitors from Korea are artists of painters themselves, while the visitors from foreign countries come to purchase traditional paintings or scrolls as souvenirs. Be sure to pay a visit to Daeseong Mounter if you also wish to purchase artwork exhibiting the stylish tradition of Korea as the shop offers reasonably priced artworks from as low as 20,000 won.

• ○Address: 1F, 216, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

• ○Hours: 10:00 - 18:00 KST | Closed Sundays

Hapdeok Super,

Helping Tie the Neighborhood Together #Since1971

Hapdeok Super is a small supermarket located one of the narrow alleys between Itaewon Station and Hangangjin Station. The shop is named after a town in Chungcheongnam-do Province called Hapdeok, the hometown of the owners. Kim Hyotae and Jang Myosun, a long-married couple, have been running the business every day at the exact same spot for over 50 years.

When the couple first moved to Hannam-dong, the area was merely a village of thatched houses and lacked concrete buildings, let alone paved roads. Now, the area has become a hub of multicultural diversity, attracting crowds of people all year round. The owner couple has witnessed such drastic changes right from their shop doorstep.

All sorts of snacks and daily necessities are neatly arranged inside the shop. Younger travelers immediately feel drawn to the very nostalgic ambience of the shop, capturing moments through photographs. Stop by Hapdeok Super for a brief travel back in time if you happen to be in the Itaewon area and suddenly need to fill up on a few essentials.

• ○Address: 20, Itaewon-ro 42-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

• ○Hours: Daily 10:00 – 22:00 KST

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