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※ The actual region of the content is selected.There are many mountains in Seoul. Counting them one by one is an ordeal in itself: Bukhan-san(837m) , Dobongsan(725m) , Suraksan(640m) , Gwanaksan(629m) , Cheongyesan(609m) , Buramsan(510m) , Samseongsan(481m) , Hoamsan (412m) , Yongmasan(348m) , Baekaksan(342m) , Inwangsan(338m) , Inneungsan(327m) , Guryongsan(306m) , Mokdongsan(300m) …. The number of mountains above the height of 300m is 14. That number exceeds 100 when taking into account other lower mountains. Despite the presence of these mountains, it’s difficult to see them when you go outside and take a look at the city. Only concrete buildings and apartments are in sight. It is when you actually take the effort to go on a hiking that the mountains reveal their presence. Seoul’s mountains are hidden from our sight by the urban landscape, as if they are playing a game of hide-and-seek. The mountains allowed us to build roads, houses, and the city of Seoul around them. Summer is just around, and the heat is still bearable. Let’s begin our journey of discovering Seoul’s mountains, the original landmark of the city.
에디터 이희조(Lee Heejo)
사진 세바스티안 슈티제 (Sebastian Schutyser)
It is no mere coincidence that there are many mountains in Seoul. Previously called Hanyang, the city of Seoul became the capital due to its propitious mountainous terrain. At the time of Joseon Dynasty’s foundation, Muhak, the famed Buddhist monk, began his travel throughout the Korean peninsula under the order of King Taejo who directed him to find an ideal site for the dynasty’s capital. The monk climbed one mountain, and noticed that it was filled with propitious aura. The mountain was what is currently known as Bukhansan, one of the five representative mountains of Korea along with Baekdusan, Jirisan, Geumgangsan and Myohyangsan. Eventually, the monk recommended Taejo to designate the mountain as the seat of the dynasty’s capital.Just like the country itself, Bukhansan went through numerous trials. During Japan’s colonization of Korea, the Japanese Empire placed stakes made of brass at pivotal mountain spots of Nojeokbong, Baekunbong and Mangyeongbong. It was part of Japan’s political and psychological strategy of eradicating the propitious aura of Bukhansan. Only in the 1980s did a group of peoplewho recognized the problem get rid of the stakes. Another historical episode illustrates the long-winding and rugged nature of Bukhansan’s terrains, giving way to clandestine events. In 1968, a team of armed commandos from North Korea, led by Kim Shin Jo, infiltrated the Blue House by following the snowy terrains of Bukhansan. There is no other way but to climb Bukhansan in orderto feel its aura. Large in scale, Bukhansan offers many hiking courses, and it can be daunting to decide where to start. There are many entries to the mountain itself, located in various places such as Seongbuk-gu, Jongno-gu and Eunpyeong-gu. But once you choose the entry for hiking for instance, the starting place at Doseonsa Temple you can adjust the hiking course and its length based on your health and physical endurance. You can try hiking up to Baegundae, the tallest peak of Bukhansan, and meet with wild cats that live there. Or you can try following the Bukhansanseong course and visit a diverse array of fortress gates. If you like rock climbing, we recommend that you visit the peaks of Insoobong and Nojeokbong. Conquering the tallest peak is certainly not the only way to enjoy Bukhansan.
Along with Bukhansan, another mountain, Suraksan, lies along the northern border of Seoul. Mysteriously, the stone mountaintops of Suraksan are all bent towards the direction of Seoul, which is why Taejo called it the mountain that protects Seoul. Since antiquity, many classical scholars of Korea have resided in the mountain and visited the place to appreciate its scenery. Compared to Bukhansan, Suraksan does not appear that high. But it is useful to take heed to what the name Suraksan implies, the syllable “ak” meaning “rough and steep” in its Chinese character. Consisting entirely of stone walls and bedrocks, Suraksan is marked by Dosolbong at its midpoint, and you must pass many giant boulders along your way to the summit. Although the path to Suraksan’s summit presents challenges, you can appreciate the quirky and strangely shaped boulders, including Tank Boulder, Elephant Boulder, Helmet Boulder andothers. A refreshing wind blows and envelops you when you’re about to run out of breath, which makes the hiking all the more pleasant. The “Surak” in Suraksan means “falling water,” and, fitting to such a name, many waterfalls and valleys abound throughout the mountain.
Try going south of Han River. Gwanaksan lies at the southern border of Seoul, and it is regarded as a “fire mountain” on the basis of feng shui principles since its peaks resemble the shape of flames. There was significant concern about a potential fire at the Imperial Palace due to the mountain’s supposed spirit of fire, and two Haetae statues were placed on both sides of Gwanghwamun as a precaution. Haetae is a mythical animal that is supposed to prevent fires. Like Suraksan, Gwanaksan consists mostly of boulders, and the incline is very steep. But once you see the crimson Yeonjudae Hermitage located atop a cliff, you will become intoxicated by its beauty and hasten your pace. After Taejo ended the Goryeo Dynasty and foundedJoseon, loyal servants of Goryeo went to the Hermitage and, in their lamentation, gazed upon lands that once belonged to the fallen dynasty. All hiking trails of Gwanaksan meet at the Hermitage, so you will inevitably come across it. You can either take a short rest at the Hermitage, or move on to the Yookbong and Palbong Ridges, both renowned as spectacular rocky paths.
In Korean, there is a phrase called “acha” (pronounced ah-cha), meaning “oops.” Many stories of origin lie behind Achasan, and one of them involves King Myeongjong ofJoseon Dynasty. During King Myeongjong’s reign, Hong Gye Gwan, a renowned fortune teller, foretold that the King would never live past the age of 40. In order to test the fortune teller, the King put a single rat inside a box and asked him the number of rats within the box. The fortune teller replied that there are five rats inside the box, which prompted the King to order his execution. But later, the King realized that the rat had four baby rats inside its womb, after which he remarked: “Acha, I made a mistake.” It was too late, but the King amended his mistake by endowing the name “Achasan” to the mountain where the fortune teller used to reside. Achasan (287m) is situated in Gwangjin-gu in eastern Seoul. Its origin story is entertaining, but what makes it really special is its location. As it is located right next to Han River, people can enjoy the scenery of the river all throughout their hiking. During the period of Goguryeo, bastions were built in Achasan in order to protect the area surrounding Han River. The scenery of the river from Achasan, forming a beautiful curve, is absolutely stunning.
The last mountain in our list of recommendation is Ansan, a modest mountain of 295 meters located in Seodaemun-gu. There is an interesting backstory behind Ansanwhich could have become Seoul’s representative mountain. Ha Ryun, a politician who ruled over Gyeonggi Province during Joseon Dynasty, pointed out that Bukhansan offered an excellent view of Ansan, leading him to claim that Ansan should become the mountain that represents the capital. If his view had been accepted, Gyeongbokgung Palace and the Blue House would have been located in the area of Shinchon, where Yonsei University is currently housed. However, Baekaksan eventually took the honor of becoming the capital’s mountain, with Gyeongbokgung Palace established in the current location. It only takes half-an-hour to reach Ansan’s Bongsudae, the mountain’s summit. At Bongsudae, you can enjoy the view of Inwangsan on your left. You can also see as far out as Bukhansan on a clear day. Despite Ansan’s modest nature, no other mountain in Seoul offers such a spectacular and comprehensive view of the city.
Bukhansan (3h 30m)
Doseonsa Temple Parking Lot → Bongammun(Uimun) → Baegundae → Bongammun(Uimun) → Yongammun → Daedongmun → Sogwicheon
Suraksan ((4h)
Suraksan Station → Dosolbong → Kokkiri(Elephant) Rock → Summit → Geumryu Fall → Sagimak
Gwanaksan (4h)
Seoul National University College of Engineering → 4th Camping Ground → Yeonjudae(Summit) → Yeonjuam Temple → Siheung Confucian School
Achasan (2h 30m)
Achasan Station → Chunsangbyeong-gil → Goguryeo Pavilion → Fort No.5 → Fort No.4(Summit) → Gingorang-gil
Ansan (1h 30m)
Seodaemun-gu Office → Bongsudae(Summit) → Seodaemun Independence Park
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