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Euljiro isn’t the kind of place that unveils itself at once. At first glance, it is all concrete, neon, and the sound of machines from the hardware shops that have worked these streets for decades. This neighborhood, stretching between City Hall and Dongdaemun, was once the industrial heart of Seoul. For years, its alleys were lined with print shops, tool stores, and factories feeding the city’s rapid growth after the Korean War. At night, it was quiet, almost forgotten, while other districts rose as nightlife hotspots.

But spend a little time wandering its alleys today and you will see what people have come to love about this district. It is full of surprises, with small treasures tucked between the grit and the history.

I set out to really experience Euljiro through its workshops, cafés, and after-dark energy, and I came away with more than just photos and memories. I carried a handmade necklace, the taste of street side tacos and cold beer, and the scent of a custom-made perfume that still lingers in my bag.

Hammering Out a Memory at Lettering Jewelry Lab

Souvenirs usually sit on a shelf collecting dust, but making my own necklace at Lettering Jewelry Lab was something entirely different. The workshop is small and bright, with tools neatly arranged as you enter the little shop hidden in a nondescript hallway near City Hall Station. Under the guidance of jeweller Jounghye Park, I was first handed a strip of paper to sketch out letters. You can write your name or almost anything you want.

At first, I could not decide: necklace, bracelet, or earrings? But soon, I settled on an idea and began picking and arranging the letters. Park encouraged me, showing how to line them up and then teaching me how to flex and solder the metal together. By the time I polished the necklace and held it in my hand, I felt like I had walked out with more than just jewelry. I was carrying a piece of Seoul, sanded and shaped with my own hands.

The history of Euljiro is full of craftsmanship like this. Generations of artisans and laborers have worked with metal, paper, and machines in these alleys. Making something tangible here feels like tapping into that heritage while creating a memory you can carry with you for a lifetime.

Coffee Hanyakbang: A Pause in the Middle of It All

Euljiro’s alleys can feel like a maze of noise, with scooters zipping past and old shop signs covered in stickers and graffiti. Stepping into Coffee Hanyakbang felt like stepping through a portal. The café, tucked away down a narrow alley, is old and cozy, with the scent of coffee drifting through the air.

I sank into a wooden chair, grateful for the quiet, and watched crowds stumble up the stairs in search of a seat as I sipped my coffee. There is something grounding about the place. Maybe it is the mix of classical music on the speakers and the low hum of conversations, or maybe it is simply the sense of retreat you can only find in cafés like this. Either way, it felt like the perfect pause before heading back into the chaos above ground.

In many ways, Coffee Hanyakbang sparked the rejuvenation of Euljiro. When it opened in 2014, it proved that these industrial alleys could attract a new generation. Blending hip sensibilities with history, the café drew people back into the neighborhood and opened the door to a new chapter for the area.

Coffee Hanyakbang 

 101-34 Euljiro 2(i)-ga Jung-gu Seoul
 Line 2/3, Euljiro3ga Station, exit 1 (approx. 166 m on foot)

Nogari Alley: Beer, Pollack, and Neon Lights

By evening, Euljiro transforms. The hardware shops roll down their shutters and the neon signs flicker on one by one. I followed the sound of laughter until I found myself in Nogari Alley, a collection of plastic tables spilling into the street, every one of them filled with people unwinding from the day.

The main order here is simple: dried pollack, known as nogari, paired with a cold beer. As blue hour settled over the city, the alley came alive. There is a joy to sitting outside with strangers just inches away from you, tearing into chewy fish and washing it down with beer. In that moment, surrounded by the glow of the lights and the hum of conversations, I felt like I had tapped into the heartbeat of Euljiro.

Nogari Alley is not new. These open-air beer “hofs” date back to the 1980s, serving affordable anju (drinking snacks) to workers from the nearby printing shops. What is new is the way young people have rediscovered it, transforming an old workers’ haunt into one of the city’s liveliest nightspots.

Nogari Alley

 95-4 Euljiro 3(sam)-ga Jung-gu Seoul
 Line 2/3, Euljiro3ga Station, exit 3 (approx. 86 m on foot)

Oldies Tacos: A Taste of the Unexpected

Seoul has no shortage of trendy food, but stumbling onto Oldies Tacos in Euljiro felt different. Its colorful sign and upbeat vibe stood out against the weathered buildings around it. There are two locations just meters from each other, but most people are drawn to the neon-lit corner spot.

It was not just the food that made it memorable, it was the contrast. Standing in a place that felt both familiar and out of place, I realized that Euljiro thrives on this mix of old and new, traditional and experimental. The tacos were delicious, but they also told the same story as the district itself: reinvention without forgetting where you came from.

Oldies Tacos 

 17-4 Cho-dong Jung-gu Seoul
 Line 2/3, Euljiro3ga Station, exit 8 (approx. 21 m on foot)

Neon Alley and Euljiro Brewing: Creativity After Dark

As I wandered deeper into the district, I stumbled into Neon Alley, a narrow stretch lit up with glowing signs that felt like walking through an art installation. The neon buzzed and flickered overhead, each piece designed by local artists, turning the gritty alley into something dreamlike.

In the middle of this strip I found Euljiro Brewing, a craft beer bar that felt like the center of the scene. The staff poured pints with care while the pink and purple glow of the alley filtered through the windows. I listened to conversations in several languages as both locals and tourists crowded in faster than the taps could keep up. Between the neon-lit streets and the small-batch beer, Euljiro revealed its softer, more creative side.

As I ventured further into the neon maze, I understood why this area was gaining so much attention. It felt like an amusement park for adults, each hidden bar and restaurant offering something unique. One moment you are sipping an IPA under neon art, the next you are pushing open what looks like a vending machine door to discover The Ranch Brewing hidden inside. Surprises like these are what make Euljiro nights unforgettable.

Neon Alley

 344-17 Euljiro 3(sam)-ga Jung-gu Seoul
 Line 2/3, Euljiro3ga Station, exit 11 (approx. 158 m on foot)

Perfume Workshop: Capturing the Scent of Seoul

My last stop was completely different: a perfume workshop at Delicate Hyangsu (Deliscent). It’s tucked inside one of the old Euljiro buildings that line the edges of Cheonggyecheon Stream. After the grit of the streets and the buzz of the bars, the quiet of this space was striking. Bottles of essential oils lined the table, and I was guided through the process of blending scents to create something uniquely mine.

As I mixed floral, citrus, and woody notes, I found myself thinking of Euljiro itself, a district that smells of dust and metal by day but transforms into beer and spice by night. When I finally bottled my own fragrance, it felt like I had captured a piece of that transformation, something to carry home long after the night ended.

Many of the scents were tied to Korea itself, from the freshness of bamboo to the calming fragrance of temple incense. Each bottle felt like a small reflection of the city, distilled into liquid form.

Delicate Hyangsu 

 17 Jugyo-dong Jung-gu Seoul
 Line 2/5, Euljiro4ga Station, exit 4 (approx. 335 m on foot) Look for the Bangsan Market bus stop. 

Leaving Euljiro

When I finally left Euljiro, necklace around my neck, perfume in my bag, and the taste of tacos and beer still lingering, I realized why this district has become one of Seoul’s most talked-about neighborhoods. It is not polished or predictable. It is a place where creativity grows out of the cracks, where old workshops share space with cafés and neon art, and where every corner holds something unexpected.

For me, that is what makes an experience in Euljiro unforgettable. It is not only about the places I visited, but the feeling of being part of a city that is always reshaping itself while never losing its edge.