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With foliage slowly falling to the ground and the cold season ahead, November might be the perfect month for an easy hike along Seoul’s longest—and arguably most beautiful—landmark. This 18.6 km stretch, known as Hanyangdoseong or, as I like to refer to it, “Seoul’s old city wall,” is more than just a historic boundary; it’s a journey through time. Built in 1395–1396, it carries centuries of stories within its stones. A walk along the wall can be romantic, historical, scenic, or whatever you want, but one thing is certain: it won’t disappoint.



During the Joseon Dynasty, walking along the wall and enjoying its stunning views was a cherished practice for residents. For scholars traveling to the capital, however, it held a different meaning. Some believed walking around the wall could help them pass the state exams and secure prestigious government positions. As we embark on this historic path, let us also hope that our journey brings something positive—be it joy, insight, or even success in an important endeavor.

18.6 km may sound daunting, and tackling the entire wall in one day isn’t for everyone. The first challenge lies in choosing a starting and ending point, but worry not—I am here to suggest a comfortable and accessible trail.



Our journey begins at Hyehwamun Gate, one of the four smaller fortress wall’s gates. During the colonial period, the Japanese dismantled the gate to construct a tramway, but it was eventually reconstructed between 1992 and 1994, ten meters away from its original location.  From this graceful gate, we cross south along the street and follow the stone wall, entering a realm where time seems to slow down.

Each breathtaking view seamlessly leads to the next. Ginkgo trees line the path, their bright yellow leaves scattered on the ground and glowing against the wall’s ancient stones. Every passerby seems drawn to pause for yet another photo of the city wall while cafes, boutiques, galleries, and restaurants appear here and there, inviting you to take a moment to explore and enjoy.



As you walk, you’ll notice the varying sizes and shapes of the wall’s stones. Some are smaller, some round, others square. Each size and shape reveals a bit about when and how the wall was built. The smaller the stones, the older it is. As each step becomes heavier, we soon arrive at the base of Naksan Park, known as “Camel Mountain” for its hump-like shape—a popular spot for couples, given its romantic atmosphere. At night, Naksan’s view becomes even more breathtaking, with the city lights creating a gorgeous, intimate setting that adds to the romance. Just when I thought the views couldn’t get any better, they do, as Seoul’s cityscape opens up beneath us.





As we gradually descend from Naksan Park, an expansive view opens to the east, revealing one of my favorite neighborhoods: Changsin-dong. “The noisiest neighborhood,” as I once described, is the heart of Seoul’s sewing industry and often goes unnoticed. This working-class area buzzes with the sounds of delivery scooters, sewing machines, and steamers in constant motion. Although Seoul’s modernization is slowly fading this ecosystem, it provides a window into Seoul’s industrial 70s and 80s. Sandwiched between major tourist attractions, its narrow, steep alleys make it a scenic side quest for city wall walkers. 



The descent continues past Dongdaemun Gate, the main eastern gate, and into Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), a strikingly modern building. From Naksan Park, these two landmarks create a vivid contrast, making it an ideal photo spot that captures the essence of “where modern Seoul meets tradition.” The DDP hosts Seoul’s Fashion Week twice a year and stands close to where the city wall once ran. Today, only restored sections can be found on its backside. Interestingly, it wasn’t the DDP but the now-demolished Dongdaemun Stadium that once cut through the wall. The old stadium lights are the only remnants, standing tall beside the partially restored wall as we make our way to our final—and darkest—stop.



Our final stop, Gwanghuimun Gate, is one of the smaller gates known as the “gate of the dead.” This beautiful yet somber gate marked the boundary between life and death. No one was buried within the city walls, and corpses were carried through this gate to be buried at the cemetery, which is now part of the trendy Sindang-dong neighborhood. Many Catholics were also martyred here. A 1 to 2-hour walk along the city wall on a relatively easy trail that concludes in one of Seoul’s trendiest neighborhoods is a perfect way to end the day. Now, passing through this gate is no longer a matter of life or death—just a chance to enjoy some delicious food in good company.